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Tissamaharama alias Tissa alias Mahagama

1/1/2020

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restored stone pillar on the platform of the Sandagiri stupa in Tissamaharama
For most Sri Lanka travellers Tissamaharama is the perfect starting point for safaris in the surrounding national parks of Yala and Bundala and Lunugamvehera, some also enjoy birdwatching in the close-by Wirawila sanctionary. But Tissa - as its name is commonly shortened - is also an attraction in itself. Tissamaharama is the ancient Mahagama, which was the capital of the southern principality known as Rohana in the Pali chronicles. It was the hometown of the Sinhalese national hero Dutugemunu (Dutthagamani in Pali). Due to its historical significance, Tissamaharama alias Mahagama is sometimes called the "Anuradhapura of the south". Four major dagobas survive from the early centuries of Buddhism on the island. The best restored one - from a scientifical point of view - is called Sandagiri Dagoba. A small archaeological museum is attached to it. Two other dagobas are much larger, actually the largest of the entire Southern Province of Sri Lanka. However, the Tissa and Yattala stupas are restored as white domes in a more modern style.
Sandagiri stupa in Tissamaharama alias Mahanaga in southern Sri Lanka
Sandagiri stupa in Tissamaharama
model of an ancient stupa in Tissamaharama in Sri Lanka
ancient stone troughs in Tissamaharama alias Tissa alias Mahanaga
Sandagiri archaeological site of Tissamaharama alias Mahanaga
finial found in the Sandagiri complex in ancient Mahagama alias Tissamaharama
The photos shown above are taken in the complex of the Sandagiri Dagoba (stupa) of the ancient city of Mahagama, now known as Tissamaharama alias Tissa. This is only one of 4 archaeological sites in Tissa. To learn more about the history of Tissa and its places of interest for heritage round tours, please click here... 
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Image of Western Monastery ruins in Anuradhapura

7/28/2018

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Anuradhapura western monasteries
Yesterday's blog post about the ruins of Anuradhapura's so-called Western Monasteries remained without image. To give you a visual impression of this less visited area of the archaeological zone, we add one picture today.

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Anuradhapura North

5/24/2018

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Not many tourists visit the very northern parts of Anuradhapura. There are indeed no major attractions to the north of the junction between Kuttam Pokuna (twin pond) and Samadhi Buddha. However, the seclusion of the sites in northern Anuradhapura contributes to their charm. And from a cultural-historical perspective they are quite special.
moonstone in Ashokarama in northern Anuradhapura
The first site you will reach when driving northwards from the Kuttam Pokuna, is a complex which once served as a women’s order. There are only few ruins of nuns‘ monasteries from the ancient Sinhalese civilization. Lankarama in the south of Anuradhapura’s large Abhayagiri complex could have been another one. The ruins to the north are called Ashokarama. Remarkably, a statue of a seated Buddha is still in situ, a rare sight in Sri Lanka’s ruins. At the entrance of this former image house there is one of the few large Anuradhapura moonstones.

Vijayarama in Anuradhapura North
Another hidden temple complex in ruins is the Vijayarama, further northwest. There is not much to see, but it’s alluring because the ancient site is overgrown by the jungle. The small stupa in the centre contained copper plates from the late Anuradhapura period. The inscriptions were Gathas praising the tantric goddess Tara. Tantrism is a form of Buddhism usually not practiced in Sri Lanka.

Anuradhapura North
A quite arcadian site in northern Anuradhapura is a stone bridge, built of blocks up to 3 m in length. Though having the appearance of a megalithic monument, they are from the historical Anuradhapura period. Such stonebridges were safe to be passed by elephants. The stone bridge in Anuradhapura north was one of the largest in Sri Lanka, but only half of the structure has survived.

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Gal Massa in Padavigampola

4/19/2018

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Gal Massa in Padavigampola
There are only few megalithic sites in Sri Lanka. However, one of them is a spectacuarly large dolmen, called Gal Massa in Sinhala. It’s situated in the village of Padavigampola not far from Rambukkana. The prehistoric site, of course, is surrounded by legends. Only giants were able to create it. Nevertheless, the Gal Massa of Padavigampola is also the setting of a famous story from the Buddhist period. It is believed to be the place – though not the only one – that served as the dwelling of the last monk who attained enlightenment on the island of Sri Lanka, Maliyadeva. Surprisingly, the Gal Massa of Padavigampola is almost unknown to tourists, though not far away from a major travel destination, the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage.

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Belilena

3/29/2018

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Belilena excavation site
Belilena waterfall
gravel track from Kitulgala to Belina
Belilena is a group of caves in the hills near Kitulgala. It is known as the finding place of remnants of the prehistoric Balangoda culture. Sri Lanka’s renowned archaeologist Deraniyagala excavated skeletal remains, some traces of human habitation that are more than 30,000 years old. Belilena is a picturesque site. The entrance of one of the larger caves is partly veiled by a waterfall during the rainy season. The gravel track from Kitulgala to Belilena ends a few hundred meters away from the caves, which are accessible via s footpath.
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Kala Wewa

3/27/2018

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Kala Wewa
Although not the largest ancient reservoir of Sri Lanka, the Kala Wewa near Kekirawa is the most famous irrigation project of the Sinhalese civilization. Built by King Dathusena in the mid 5th century, the Kala Wewa allowed to diverte water from the Kala river to the area of Anuradhapura, which until then had been irrigated mainly be the waters of only one river, the Malwattu Oya. For that purpose, the „Giant Canal“ Yoda Ela, also known as Jaya Ganga, carried excess water from the Kala Wea along an 87 km long single banking canal to the Tissa Wewa in Anuradhapura, almost doubling the amount of water available in the heartland of the ancient Sinhalese civilization. The circumference of the Kala Wewa, which covers 18 square kilometers, is 65 kilometers. The length of the dam is almost 7 km. According to the Mahavamsa, a chronicle from the 6th century, the construction of Kala Wewa is intimately connected to the story of Sigiriya. Today’s travelers see the Kala Wewa when visiting the close-by Aukana Buddha, which is the largest standing Buddha from ancient times that can be seen in the Cultural Triangle. 
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Faxian Cave

3/15/2018

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Faxian Cave in Kalutara District
Faxian Cave is a rarely visited temple and archaeological site in Kalutara District, to the north of Sinharaja Rain Forest. The Sinhala translation of Faxian (Fa Hsien) is „Pahiyan“, the rock is therefore alson known as „Pahiyangala“. The cave is named after the famous Buddhist scholar and pilgrim Faxian from China, who also visited Sri Lanka and studied in Anuradhapura. He is said to have spent some months in the cave when he visited the Holy Mountain Siri Pada (Adam’s Peak). Pahiyangala is of utmost archaeological significance, as it is the finding place of 33,000 years old human fossilized skeletal remains of the Balangoda culture from the Late Pleistocene.

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Manakanda Archaeological Site

3/9/2018

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Jantagara in Manakanda
You are looking for an untouched heritage destination, an attraction that is not crowded with busloads of other tourists? But reaching the site should not require leaving your Cultural Triangle round tour for far distances? Then Manakanda is your place to see. It’s actually only 3.5 km away from the main junction of highways A9 and A11, where the roads from Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa and Dambulla meet. Actually, almost all travellers proceeding from Anuradhapura or Mihintale to Kandy come along this junction.

Manakanda is a former Pansukulika monastery, the same kind of aramic complex without any stupas, images houses, bo trees that is typical of this ascetic group of hermits called Pansukulikas ot Pamsukulikas. Typical structures of sich a Pansukulika monastery are meditation platforms called Padhanagaras and Ayurvedic hospitals called Jantagaras and an extraordinarily large pond with Ghats. Exploring the archaeological site of Manakanda along jungle pathes is an extraordinary experience of feeling like an explorer. There are not many places of interest left as untouched as Manakanda. You can also climb the hill for spectaculat views. But don’t do this without a local guide, because Manakanda is elephant area.

More about Manakanda...
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Magul Maha Vihara in Lahugala

2/19/2018

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Wedding terrace of Magul Maha Vihara in Lahugala
The Magul Maha Vihara, also spelt Maghul Maha Viharaya, is an ancient monastic complex situtated close to the small Lahugala-Kitulana National Park in the hinterland of Arugam Bay. Among the remnants of the Anuradhapura period, Magul Maha Vihara is one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in the southeast of Sri Lanka. ‘Magul’ means ‘wedding’ in Sinhala. The platform in the southwestern corner of the rectangular monastic complex is believed to be the location where the wedding of King Kavan Tissa from the southern kingdom of Rohana and Princess Viharamahadevi from Kelaniya near Colombo took place in the 2nd century BC. She will become the mother of Dutthagamani alias Dutugemunu, the most famous king of Sinhalese history. According to legend told in the Mahavamsa, Viharamaha Devi volunteered to sacrifice herself to the sea in order to appease the gods who punished her father’s kingdom by sending a tsunami. But the princess was safely carried in a golden vessel over the ocean, landing at a place near the Muhudu Maha Viharaya in Pottuvil (others say in Kirinda in the Southern Province), where the encounter between the local king and the beautiful princess took place. The marriage is said to have been celebrated in Lahugala on the platform now called Magul Maduwa or Magul Poruwa. It‘s namegiving to the entire ancient complex.
Magul Poruwa in the southwestern corner of the Magul Maha Vihara
Magul Poruwa in the southwestern corner of the Magul Maha Vihara
Magul Poruwa meaning platform for wedding celebrations
Magul Poruwa meaning platform for wedding celebrations
Actually, the buildings are not from the pre-Christian centuries but about one millennium younger, roughly from the late Anuradhapura period. An important stone inscription at the archaeological site dates to an even later period (14th century). The layout of the monastic complex is regular and follows a pattern called „Pabbata Vihara“, which became quite common in the Culturl triangle during the 7th and 8th century, but Magul Maha Vihara is one of the few examples of this systematically arranged monastic compounds in southern Sri Lanka.
Bodhigara atop the Magul Poruwa
Bodhigara atop the Magul Poruwa
Ghats at the pond of Magul Maha Vihara
Ghats at the pond of Magul Maha Vihara
paraket wall of the ancient Magul Maha Vihara
paraket wall of the ancient Magul Maha Vihara
image house of the Magul Maha Vihara
image house of the Magul Maha Vihara
A rectangular paraket wall in north-south direction surrounds the entire complex, which covers an extent of around 10,000 acres. The four major buildings of a monastery are arranged symmetrically in the four corners of the premises. Besides the chapter hall, which serves for the higher ceremonies of the monks, these edifices are dedicated to objects also venerated by lay persons (pilgrims and other guests of the monastery). These objects of veneration are a stupa, a Buddha statue inside a hall called image house (Pathimagara), and a platform for tree worship (Bodhigara). Most likely, the platform now called wedding terrace was the Bodhigara of the ancient monastery now called Magul Maha Vihara.
guard stone at the Magul Maha Vihara
Dvarapala statue at the Magul Maha Vihara
The moonstone (Sandakada Pahana) of the Magul Maha Vihara in Lahugala is of special interest for lovers of ancient Sinhala-Buddhist art. It’s the largest ancient moonstone with intricate carvings in the southern half of the the island. In fact, there are only very few carved moonstones in southern Sri Lanka. Hence, the moonstone of the Magul Maha Vihara is the best instance of this typical and classical sujet of Sri Lankan art, which is without equally elaborate paragons in India. There is one feature that can be seen nowhere else than in the Magul Maha Vihara. Elephant carvings are very common on classical Sri Lankan moonstones. But only in the Magul Maha Vihara the elephants are depicted with riders. Mahouts can usually not be seen on stone carvings from the Anuradhapura period and not on any other moonstone in the entire world.
moonstone of the Magul Maha Vihara in Lahugala
This belongs to the mid Anuradhapura period. Being one of the more attractive features of an edifice, the moonstone underwent development on a number of occasions and evolved into an exquisite artwork of delicate carvings by the mid Anuradhapura period. From among the carvings on the moonstone the tender leaf of the Ironwood tree, lotus petal motif, lotus flowers, animal figures etc. took a prominent place. However the moonstone in Magul Maha Vihara is unique among the moonstones found from numerous places in Sri Lanka. The design of a mahout riding the elephant depicted in this moonstone is an eminent feature. It is our duty to protext national archaeological heritage for the sake of present and future generations.
The above text in italic letters is cited from the signboard of Sri Lanka's Archaeological Department,
which is placed near the moonstone of the Madul Maha Vihara in Lahugala.
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Kotavehera in Dedigama

2/8/2018

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Picture
The Kotavehera in Dedigama in Sabaragamuwa Province is the largest stupa in Sri Lanka’s wetzone, which corresponds to the west and southwest of the island. It’s situated halfway between Pinnawela Elephant Camp and the river rafting destination Kitulgala, but not many tourists find their way to Dedigama. The Kotavehera stupa was built by King Parakramabahu as a memorial at his place of birth, as Dedigama was the capital of his father  Manabharana, who was one of the three independent rulers of the island in the mid 12th century.

The Kotavehera is one of Sri Lanka‘s very few stupas the relic chamber of which was opened by achaeologists with special permission of the government. Actually, the brick cnstruction consisted of were two stupas with separate relic chambers, an earlier one was overbuilt by the large Kotavehera of Parakramabahu. The findings were spectacular. Some of them were brought to the National Museum in Colombo for safekeeping, whereas others are on a display in a newly erects archaeological museum close to the Kotavehera stupa.

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