The remotest of Sri Lanka's inhabited islands is Delft, which is situated in the Gulf of Mannar to the north-northwest of mainland Sri Lanka and to the south-southwest of Jaffna peninsula. Delft Island is a Divisional Secretariat of Jaffna District in the Northern Province of Sri Lanka.
Besides the natural beauty of the sparsely populated island and some ruins of a fortress buildings, there are few attractions for travellers - but they are somewhat strange ones, namely first and foremost Sri Lanka's only herds of feral horses, descendants of Arabian stallions once breeded here for horse trade with India; secondly an imposing specimen of a Baobab tree, a typical species of subsaharan Africa, which is a rare sight in Sri Lanka. All landmarks of Delft Island – the buildings, the animals and the tree - are legacies of European colonial history.
The Dutch city name "Delft" is the common Sinhalese designation of the island, although the Sinhala language otherwise avoids the articulation of three consonants and does not use the ending "lft". Of course, there is a traditional Tamil name as well, "Neduntivu", also spelt "Neduntheevu", which translates to "long island" or "large island". But Sri Lankans of all ethnicities still use - or at least understand - the word "Delft". Even on renowned international nautical maps, e.g, the Admiralty Charts issued by the United Kingdom Hydrographic Office, the island is cartographed as "Delft".
Not surprisingly, this strange name for a tropical island is of colonial origin. After the Dutch conquered Jaffna from the Portuguese in the mid 17th century, Rijckloff van Goens, their Governor of Zeylan, gave names of Dutch cities to all eight major islands of the archipelago in the Palk Strait just to the west of Jaffna peninsula, e.g. "Rotterdam" for the islet Analaitivu, which is the smallest of those eight. In the course of time, most Dutch city names of their islands have been forgotten by Sri Lankans - except from "Delft" for the most distant one.
Not only due to its illustrious name, Delft nowadays is pretty popular with Dutch travellers visiting the Northern Province of Sri Lanka.
Besides the natural beauty of the sparsely populated island and some ruins of a fortress buildings, there are few attractions for travellers - but they are somewhat strange ones, namely first and foremost Sri Lanka's only herds of feral horses, descendants of Arabian stallions once breeded here for horse trade with India; secondly an imposing specimen of a Baobab tree, a typical species of subsaharan Africa, which is a rare sight in Sri Lanka. All landmarks of Delft Island – the buildings, the animals and the tree - are legacies of European colonial history.
The Dutch city name "Delft" is the common Sinhalese designation of the island, although the Sinhala language otherwise avoids the articulation of three consonants and does not use the ending "lft". Of course, there is a traditional Tamil name as well, "Neduntivu", also spelt "Neduntheevu", which translates to "long island" or "large island". But Sri Lankans of all ethnicities still use - or at least understand - the word "Delft". Even on renowned international nautical maps, e.g, the Admiralty Charts issued by the United Kingdom Hydrographic Office, the island is cartographed as "Delft".
Not surprisingly, this strange name for a tropical island is of colonial origin. After the Dutch conquered Jaffna from the Portuguese in the mid 17th century, Rijckloff van Goens, their Governor of Zeylan, gave names of Dutch cities to all eight major islands of the archipelago in the Palk Strait just to the west of Jaffna peninsula, e.g. "Rotterdam" for the islet Analaitivu, which is the smallest of those eight. In the course of time, most Dutch city names of their islands have been forgotten by Sri Lankans - except from "Delft" for the most distant one.
Not only due to its illustrious name, Delft nowadays is pretty popular with Dutch travellers visiting the Northern Province of Sri Lanka.
General Information
Besides Kayts, which is of almost the same size, Delft is the Palk Strait's largest island, covering 4,717 hectares. Trapez-shaped, it measures about 8 kilometers from west to east and 5,5 kilometers from north to south. The largest diameter is 11 kilometers from northeast to southwest. The distance to Jaffna is 35 km, as the crow flies. The territory of Delft is flat, surrounded by shallow waters. The beaches consist of sand and, what is rare in Sri Lanka, of coral chunks. The island must once have been a coral reef.
Rainy season is from October till February, but there are lots of days with perfectly blue sky during the entire rainy season. Annual precipitation is only 750 mm, making Delft a semi-arid area. Usually, there is a complete lack of rainfall during the peak of the dry season in the northern hemisphere summer months. Not surprisingly, the ground water of Delft is slightly brackish. Salinity in many water bodies can increase in the dry season to a level that makes them almost unsuitable for drinking, but just good enough for agriculture and some livestock. There are no streams on the island. The major source of freshwater is surface water, which is collected in natural depressions and artificial ponds. Water for daily needs is also taken from shallow wells using buckets made from palmyra palm leaves. Remarkably, some fresh water wells are very close to the beach. But only the incredibly deep "Devil's well" never dries up even in times of drought. The residents claim, water from this well is the best found anywhere in Sri Lanka. However, surface water collections and wells are not at all sufficient. Additional fresh water supply from the mainlaind is provided by navy vessels during the dry season and residents then have to pay for water brought by a bowser. The sparsely populated island of Delft is home to a population of 4,800 Tamil people, living in compounds only in the northern half of the island. The two settlement areas are situated in the northeast and in the west, separated by the main palm groves and by the largest, though very shallow tanks of the island. which are called Vedduk Kulam and Periya Kulam. They are situated in the very center of the island. The southern half of Delft is covered with scrubland, it's neither inhabited nor used for agriculture.
The vegetation is typical for semi-arid areas of the subcontinent. Besides dry shrubs and grasses, there are lots of Palmyrah palms, also called Borassus palms. Huge expanses of Aloe vera grow wild on sandy parts of the island. The number of bird species on Delft Island is 101, including 37 migratory species. Furthermore, there are 15 butterfly species, of which one, Lesser Albatross (Appias galane), is endemic to Sri Lanka, 11 mammal species, 10 dragonfly species, 8 reptile species and 1 amphibian species. Similar to other Tamil areas in northern parts of Sri Lanka, the compounds of private houses are fenced. But what is unique is that the fences on Delft Island are mostly walls of coral-stones without any use of plaster - and only partially piled up by palmyrah leaves. Some Papaya trees and Banana trees grow in the residents' gardens. Main income sources are fishing and palmyrah cultivation. Delft is well-known for dry fish and for handicraft from the Palmyrah tree. Delft prides itself on producing the best Palmyrah toddy of Sri Lanka. Livestock often serves as an important supplement to family incomes and nutrition. Only few islanders own cattle and goats, but some more keep poultry. Jambulana trees were introduced in recent times, because they grow well in dry zones all over India and Sri Lanka. Ripe Jambulana fruits are small and black and therefore sometimes wrongly called "blackberry". Other parts of the tree are used for Ayurveda treatments. For growing aubergine, tomato and chilli in a school garden, pot irrigation was taught by scientists from Jaffna. The porous walls of clay pots filled with water provide controlled irrigation. By reducing evaporation, pot irrigation can conserve three times more water for the plants than drip irrigation. A garment factory run by the Sri Lanka Navy to produce uniforms is the only employment generating venture in the island. The Navy also embarked on a project to supply electricity for many households in the island.
The percentage of Roman Catholics is high in Delft, at least one third of the population. A few hundred Christians are Methodists. Despite of a majority of Shivaite Hindus, there are strikingly more Christian churches than Hindu temples on the island. Delft is home to large group of Pariyahs (see below), which is a rare phenomenon even in Hindu dominated areas of Sri Lanka. Maybe the Pariyah status has been a kind of motivation that contributed to a higher rate of conversions to Christianity than usual. A small hospital is operated by one doctor and a few nurses. Instant treatment is required for snake bites in particular. Patients with minor health problems usually suffer from nutritional problems. Some islanders need treatment for itchy rashes caused by specific sea flies. Patients with severe diseases are usually transported to the mainland with assistance of the Sri Lanka Navy. Lanka Excursions Holidays offers Delft Island's attractions. We present detailed descriptions of each of them just below the historical overview, see below... |
Delft Island's major attractions:
1. Protected feral horses roaming in herds
2. one of Sri Lanka's most impressive Baobab trees 3. Meekanam Fort from the colonial past 4. Historical Pigeon Cot in the Court Complex 5. Colonial Queens Tower alias Quindah Tower 6. Cholan Ruins of a Buddhist stupa made of coral stones 7. Growing Stone with Hindu sanctuary 8. Ruins of British horse stables 9. Large Banyan Tree 10. Giant's Footprint History of Delft Island
One of the most famous ancient Tamil Epics, the Silapathikaram, mentions a King Vediyarasan ruling Neduntivu. "Vediyarasan" means "king of firecrackers". He is believed to have controlled the lucrative pearl industry in the Palk Strait. Vediyarasan sent milk and flowers daily to the famous Rameswaram Temple at the opposite site of the Gulf of Mannar. Vediyarasan is said to have been involved in battles with troops of the Chola dynasty from South India. The epic may reflect the significance of the overseas trade of competing Tamil dynasties during the period of the Roman emperors, although the epic is about purchasing sapphire stones. Megasthenes, a Greek emmissary visiting India already during the period of Chandragupta Mauriya in the 3rd century B.C., wrote about pearl fishing at the coasts of southern India and northern Sri Lanka, which attracted western merchants.
Marco Polo on his return from China came to Sri Lanka and also landed on one of the islands in the Palk Strait. He described the inhabitants as idolaters, who ate flesh and drank tree wine. During the colonial period, too, the island was of some strategic relevance. The Portuguese, who called it “Ilha das Vacas”, built a fort at the beach which was most suitable as a harbour, it served as their local naval base. In periods of lack of Portuguese control, the fort was used by pirates. It was the Portuguese who first introduced horses on the island, though not yet on a large scale. For many centuries, horse trade had been of significance for the entire Indian subcontinent, since cavallery formed an important part of Indian armies. But horse breeding had turned out to be too inefficient in India, maybe due to the humid climate conditions. This is why huge amounts of horses had to be imported from Arabia and central Asia. In the first half of the 16th century, the Portuguese invaders not only took over the lucrative spice trade from Arab merchants in the Indian Ocean. Soon they became involved and sought dominance in internal Asian trade as well. Their first violently gained success in this respect was a kind of monopoly on maritime horse trade in the Indian Ocean. Delft in those days presumably served more as an entrepot than a breeding ground. This changed only in later times under Dutch and British rule, when horse breeding became gradually more important than far-distance horse trading from the Arabian peninsula and the Persian Gulf. Rijcklof van Goens, giving the name of the famous Dutch city "Delft", played a crucial role in overcoming the Portuguese rule in Sri Lanka. He had already succeeded fighting battles at the forts of Negombo and Colombo. Thereafter, Jaffna was the the last Portuguese stronghold in Ceylon, which was the colonial name of the entire island nation. After the total defeat of the Portuguese, Rijcklof van Goens became Gouvernor of Ceylon from 1659 till 1672 and, later on, General Governour of the entire Dutch East-India Company (VOC) from 1678 till 1681, which by the way was the largest company of the world those days. As in the cases of other Portuguese fortifications, the Dutch continued using the earlier fortress, but the fort on Delft was not enlarged and it was not modernized according to Dutch artillery-resistant fortress architecture like those in Jaffna or Galle. The most notable ruler of Delft during the British period was the Irishman Lieutenant Nolan, an officer in the engineers of the 4th Ceylon Regiment. In almost all travel reports available online, he is confused with the more well-known Captain Nolan. This namesake, Louis Edward Nolan, who became famous for his mistaken attack and his tragic death during the Crimean War, was indeed promoted to Captain in southern India and he became very renowned as a horseman for inventing a new saddle for the British forces and for writing the books "The Training of Cavalry Remount Horses: A New System" and "Cavalry: Its History and Tactics". But in fact, this Captain Nolan was a Scotsman and did not serve in Ceylon and he is one generation later than the Irishman, Lieutenant Nolan, who in 1811 was commanded to proceed to Delft Island. Lieutenant Nolan's original mission was to develop the growing of flax on the island, for supplying the colonial government and the British forces with canvas. However, one year later he was also given charge of the horse-breeding on Delft Island, which already had been the only indigenous source of horses for the British crown colony of Ceylon. Lieutenant Nolan achieved success in the difficult task of horse-breeding by importing a new blood line. In Nolan's days the island's population was less than 3,000, compared to abot 5,000 today. The British chief officer was held in high esteem by most of the inhabitants of Delft, because he improved the water supply significantly. Nevertheless, he had lots of private enemies among the local population. Lieutenant Nolan had a reputation of being a kind of Casanova. Some islanders were disgusted by his sexual activities. In 1819, a petition was sent by a group of a few dozen locals to the British Resident in Jaffna. They claimed that Nolan had taken advantage of his judicial position in order to provide himself with females. It was alleged that he had ordered one lady to be punished by twelve strokes for refusing his advances. One woman had thrown herself down a well after giving birth to a child which was obviously of European parentage. Though no rape charges could be proven, there can be no doubt that there's a lot of offspring from that British gentleman. His descendants are well-known for their grey-coloured eyes. Remarkably, they still form a class of untouchables called "Nolan Pariyahs". Most of them soon left Delft because of contempt and poor living conditions. They settled down in some villages on the Jaffna peninsula. Nolan continued to rule in Delft until his retirement, returning to Ireland in 1824. The legacy of Nolan still remaining on Delft is the horse population of several hundreds, the ruins of stables and, nearby, the island's best freshwater well. During the decades of the Sri Lankan civil war from 1983 to 2009, Delft, though inhabited by Tamils, always remained under control of the central government and served as a Sri Lankan Navy base located close to rebel-held territory. A battle with boats of the Tamil Tiger separatist forces was fought off the coast of the island in 2008, when the separatist rebels' strength was already in decline. In this final years of the war, the Tamil Tigers simply tried to cover up their weaknesses by producing seemingly spectacular counter attacks. More recently, incomes of fishermen living on Delft Island are negatively effected by poaching of fishermen from the Indian state of Tamil Nadu who don't respect the borders of Sri Lankan maritime territories. Particularly the Tamil inhabitants of Delft demand uncompromising policies of the Sri Lankan government and they support armed navy operations against illegal fishing carried out by Tamil citizens from neighbouring mainland India. |
Stupa of the Cholan ruins
In the pre-modern and early modern history of Delft, foreign powers played an eminent role, as reported in the previous chapter. However, there is a Sinhalese and Tamil part of the island's story, too. According to the Buddhist chronicles, there were a number of Buddhist temples on Delft Island during the Anuradhapura period. All islands near Jaffna are said to have been inhabited by a huge amount of Buddhist monks. Indeed, significant archaeological remnants of Buddhist sanctuaries are found on the islands as well as on the peninsula as well as on the mainland in Sri Lanka's Northern Province.
By the way: Readers should be careful not to project today's identifications of Sinhalese with Buddhists and Tamils with Hindus into a distant past. In fact, many ancient Theravada Buddhist scholars were Tamil and the Buddhist religion played a major part in Tamil cultural history of South India during the first millennium. Particularly Tamil merchant castes and seafaring traders then favoured Buddhism. For Buddhist monks, ethnicities and native languages played a minor role, as they communicated in the ancient Pali language, similar to medieval Christian clerics from different nations speaking and writing Latin. Thus predominance of one specific religion should not be readily equated with predominance of one specific ethnicity, when discussing pre-colonial eras.
At the nortwestern coast of the island, there are ruins of 3 ancient Buddhist stupas on Delft, called Cholan ruins or Vediyarasan Fort. Their ground walls are restored by the Archaeological Department. Two stupas are of medium or small size, but the largest has a circumference of 32 meters. This main stupa is situated on an elevated platform and was surrounded four sub-stupas. Just as Delft's buildings from more recent times, the ancient stupa also was built of coral stones, which is unique in Sri Lankan monastic architecture.
Three inscriptions have been discovered on stones used to pave this main stupa. Two inscriptions in Tamil belong to the late Middle Ages, whereas the one ancient inscription using Brahmi letters dates back to the beginning of the first millennium A.D.
There is a local saying that before arriving with the Sacred Bo-Tree at the port of Jambakola Patuna the Buddhist nun Sangamitta had a rest at this place on the island. There are plans to rebuilt the entire stupa with support of the Sri Lanka Navy.
The main stupa can be visited on a side trip during the normal round tour, when travelling from the ruins of the Sarapiddi stables to the Dutch Fort or the other way around. Usually this detour for a visit of the Chola ruins is included in Delft Island round tours.
The stupa will not be the first attraction you see after arrival at the port of Delft. Our article mentions the Buddhist remnants first only for historical reasons. It's just the most ancient remaining structure on the entire island.
By the way: Readers should be careful not to project today's identifications of Sinhalese with Buddhists and Tamils with Hindus into a distant past. In fact, many ancient Theravada Buddhist scholars were Tamil and the Buddhist religion played a major part in Tamil cultural history of South India during the first millennium. Particularly Tamil merchant castes and seafaring traders then favoured Buddhism. For Buddhist monks, ethnicities and native languages played a minor role, as they communicated in the ancient Pali language, similar to medieval Christian clerics from different nations speaking and writing Latin. Thus predominance of one specific religion should not be readily equated with predominance of one specific ethnicity, when discussing pre-colonial eras.
At the nortwestern coast of the island, there are ruins of 3 ancient Buddhist stupas on Delft, called Cholan ruins or Vediyarasan Fort. Their ground walls are restored by the Archaeological Department. Two stupas are of medium or small size, but the largest has a circumference of 32 meters. This main stupa is situated on an elevated platform and was surrounded four sub-stupas. Just as Delft's buildings from more recent times, the ancient stupa also was built of coral stones, which is unique in Sri Lankan monastic architecture.
Three inscriptions have been discovered on stones used to pave this main stupa. Two inscriptions in Tamil belong to the late Middle Ages, whereas the one ancient inscription using Brahmi letters dates back to the beginning of the first millennium A.D.
There is a local saying that before arriving with the Sacred Bo-Tree at the port of Jambakola Patuna the Buddhist nun Sangamitta had a rest at this place on the island. There are plans to rebuilt the entire stupa with support of the Sri Lanka Navy.
The main stupa can be visited on a side trip during the normal round tour, when travelling from the ruins of the Sarapiddi stables to the Dutch Fort or the other way around. Usually this detour for a visit of the Chola ruins is included in Delft Island round tours.
The stupa will not be the first attraction you see after arrival at the port of Delft. Our article mentions the Buddhist remnants first only for historical reasons. It's just the most ancient remaining structure on the entire island.
Meekanam Fort
Usually, the island round-tour is clock-wise. This makes sense, because the natural beauty of Delft is its major attraction. Thus impressions of the landscape, flora and fauna are a good starting point. Nevertheless, our Lanka Excursions Holidays description of Delft Island lists the attractions in a different order, because our article is focused on the island's culture. The most significant natural attractions of Delft, feral horses as well as the Baobab tree, can also be regarded as part of Delft's colonial history and will be described further below.
The most significant monument from the island's colonial past is the fortress, of course. So let's start with this. Some online articles call it "Portuguese Fort", others "Dutch Fort". Both is correct. But what's not correct is the impression there could be two different colonial forts on the island. Even more confusing is that some websites list even two different Dutch forts on Delft, namely Meekanam Fort and Vediyarasan Fort. But this is simply done by mistake. In fact, "Vediyarasan Fort" is not a colonial building. Rather, it's the imaginative name of the ruined stupa, as already mentioned, attributing the ancient Buddhist structures to the legendary Tamil pirate, King Vediyarasan. Vediyarasan Fort is just another name for the Cholan Ruins. Thus, there is only one colonial fortress on the island of Delft and it was used by the Portuguese and later on by the Dutch alike and its local name is Meekanam Fort.
The most significant monument from the island's colonial past is the fortress, of course. So let's start with this. Some online articles call it "Portuguese Fort", others "Dutch Fort". Both is correct. But what's not correct is the impression there could be two different colonial forts on the island. Even more confusing is that some websites list even two different Dutch forts on Delft, namely Meekanam Fort and Vediyarasan Fort. But this is simply done by mistake. In fact, "Vediyarasan Fort" is not a colonial building. Rather, it's the imaginative name of the ruined stupa, as already mentioned, attributing the ancient Buddhist structures to the legendary Tamil pirate, King Vediyarasan. Vediyarasan Fort is just another name for the Cholan Ruins. Thus, there is only one colonial fortress on the island of Delft and it was used by the Portuguese and later on by the Dutch alike and its local name is Meekanam Fort.
Meekaman Fort (also spelt "Meegaaman Fort") is situated just 2 km west of the port (Thalaithurai Jetty), in the vicinity of the present Delft Hospital premises. The fort was located at the island's only natural harbour once offering secure mooring facilities for vessels. Today, the narrow strip of this bay, 250 m long and 50 to 80 m wide, is too shallow for ships or even boats, because it's silted up and swampy. There is a Roman Catholic cemetery on a sand bank on the opposite side of the former harbour bay. So you should still be able to recognize what was once the harbour just between Meekanam Fort and this Christian cemetery.
Meekanam Fort, just as almost all buildings in the island in former and in recent times, is made from coral stone. This kind of fortress material again is quite unique in Sri Lanka. A special mortar was made out of lime, aloe vera and eggs.
The fortress is a strongly fortified two-storied dwelling, covering an area of almost fifty square metres. In contrast to most other Portuguese forts in Sri Lanka, it was not enlarged and not much modernized by the Dutch. A massy double wall cuts the building in half at ground-level, not allowing communication between the two parts, one of which may have served as an arsenal, the other one included a prison, a small square room at the corner. The floor of this dungeon is below ground level and has no door. Prisoners must have been let down through a trapdoor in the floor above. The stairway of the fortress building runs within the double walls. All five rooms of the ground are withoit windows, in order to avoid invasions. The only windows and means of communication were on the upper floor. The rooms here were fewer and much more spacial. The entire design of course was quite common in defensive structures.
Meekanam Fort, just as almost all buildings in the island in former and in recent times, is made from coral stone. This kind of fortress material again is quite unique in Sri Lanka. A special mortar was made out of lime, aloe vera and eggs.
The fortress is a strongly fortified two-storied dwelling, covering an area of almost fifty square metres. In contrast to most other Portuguese forts in Sri Lanka, it was not enlarged and not much modernized by the Dutch. A massy double wall cuts the building in half at ground-level, not allowing communication between the two parts, one of which may have served as an arsenal, the other one included a prison, a small square room at the corner. The floor of this dungeon is below ground level and has no door. Prisoners must have been let down through a trapdoor in the floor above. The stairway of the fortress building runs within the double walls. All five rooms of the ground are withoit windows, in order to avoid invasions. The only windows and means of communication were on the upper floor. The rooms here were fewer and much more spacial. The entire design of course was quite common in defensive structures.
Colonial Pigeon Cot
The Dutch, after taking over the fort from the Portuguese, did not change the structure on a large scale, but they built an additional barrack a few hundred meters further east and surrounded the small garrison compound of almost 200 square metres by its own separate enclosure wall. The islanders believe that there was a tunnel connecting these premises with the fort. The area was used for administrational purposes, too, and therefore is also known as "court complex". One of the barrack rooms can still be seen, though parts of the wall have fallen apart.
The most striking building in this compound is the Dutch dovecot. It's shape is that of a massive pillar with a base of about 0.75 square metres and about seventy holes in the wider cot at the top. Such a pigeon cote is a very rare sight in Sri Lanka. The structure became a kind of small-scale landmark of Delft Island, besides Queens Tower and the Baobab Tree. In the colonial period, it was home to carrier pigeons, which were brought to Jaffna in order to deliver messsages to thei homes on Delft Island in a shorter period of time than by boat. The use of messenger pigeons for correspondence with the remote Island of Delft continued in British times.
The ruined court building nearby is from the later British period. The door inscription displays the year 1905 and the initials of the then ruling reign, King Edward VII.
The most striking building in this compound is the Dutch dovecot. It's shape is that of a massive pillar with a base of about 0.75 square metres and about seventy holes in the wider cot at the top. Such a pigeon cote is a very rare sight in Sri Lanka. The structure became a kind of small-scale landmark of Delft Island, besides Queens Tower and the Baobab Tree. In the colonial period, it was home to carrier pigeons, which were brought to Jaffna in order to deliver messsages to thei homes on Delft Island in a shorter period of time than by boat. The use of messenger pigeons for correspondence with the remote Island of Delft continued in British times.
The ruined court building nearby is from the later British period. The door inscription displays the year 1905 and the initials of the then ruling reign, King Edward VII.
Queens Tower
The other landmark of Delft is on the opposite side of the island, at its southern coast. The Queens Tower is a simple version of a lighthouse and, of course, served as a navigation point, namely during the Dutch and British periods. The tower is said to have once been covered with a reflective surface which could be seen from a far distance. Additionally, there is a chimney-like shaft inside the tower, which creates a vacuum forcing air upwards. This could have been used for fire or smoke signals. The Queen's Tower, also known as "Quindah Tower" by locals, was originally built by the Dutch. Another tower called "King's Tower" was created by the British, but after its destruction only the basement has remained.
It is often claimed that the coastline of India can be seen from the southern coast of Delft, where Queens Tower is located. But if you can't spot the opposite coastline, don't lose trust in your eyesight. The claim cannot be true. Mainland India is in more than 60 kilometres distance, Even from the top of the 7 m hight tower you would not be able to see the top of a tower of the same size situated at sea level in more than 20 km distance. That's plainly the result of sobering mathematics concerning the curvature of the earth. In theory, you could just spot the top of St. Anthony's Church on Kachchaitivu Island, which is still within Sri Lankan maritime territory, only half-way to India. What can be true indeed, is this: During nighttime, some glimmer of the bright and radiant illumination of India's famous Rameswaram Temple may be visible from Delft, depending on weather conditons. Rameswaram Island, in exactly the same southwestern direction as Kachchaitivu Island, is in 48 km distance from Delft. You will never be able to spot the temple itself, but traces of the shining light in the moisty air above it can be seen, sometimes.
It is often claimed that the coastline of India can be seen from the southern coast of Delft, where Queens Tower is located. But if you can't spot the opposite coastline, don't lose trust in your eyesight. The claim cannot be true. Mainland India is in more than 60 kilometres distance, Even from the top of the 7 m hight tower you would not be able to see the top of a tower of the same size situated at sea level in more than 20 km distance. That's plainly the result of sobering mathematics concerning the curvature of the earth. In theory, you could just spot the top of St. Anthony's Church on Kachchaitivu Island, which is still within Sri Lankan maritime territory, only half-way to India. What can be true indeed, is this: During nighttime, some glimmer of the bright and radiant illumination of India's famous Rameswaram Temple may be visible from Delft, depending on weather conditons. Rameswaram Island, in exactly the same southwestern direction as Kachchaitivu Island, is in 48 km distance from Delft. You will never be able to spot the temple itself, but traces of the shining light in the moisty air above it can be seen, sometimes.
Giant's Footprint
Queens Tower is in the very south-east of Delft Island, travelling from there along the southern coastline you will arrive at the village called Sarapiddi close to the western coastline. Sarapiddi is located halfway between Queens Tower and the Dutch fort and not far from the stupa called Cholan Ruins, alias Vediyarasan Fort.
Sarapiddi does not really look like a village. It's a settlement area, with dispersed inhabited houses and some gardening areas in between them. Sarapiddi is the perfect place to study the coral walls surrounding private properties, typical for Delft Island. Fences used as enclosures of premises are typical for Tamil settlements all over the Jaffna peninsula. However, coral walls instead of fences are something special. Their appearance resembles Irish sceneries more than Tamil settlements. And this is not by accident, as we shall see below. That Sarapiddi is known for the best freshwater, is also connected with the story of the coral walls. Travellers usually stop at Sarapiddi to walk to the the ruins of a stable complex close to the village.
On the way to the ruins of those horse stable, visitors come along the so-called "Giant's footprint". It is engraved on the stone surface. It is said to have been left by a man who must have been about 13 meters tall. A similar footprint on the island of Nainativu is attributed to the second of the Buddha's three legendary visits in Sri Lanka. However, the Hindu population of Delft credits Hanuman with leaving the footprint in Sarapiddi. The monkey-faced Hanuman was the helper of Rama and came to Sri Lanka several times, flying through the air just like the Buddha. The first time he was on the Island of Lanka in search for Rama's abducted wife Sita. He came again with Rama's monkey army to free Sita. And during the war he had to travel to the Himalayas in search for medical herbs needed for curing Rama's and Lakshmana's otherwise fatal wounds. According to some Hindu beliefs, the entire island of Delft had been created by a piece of the Himalaya mountains that the god Hanuman had been carrying when returning to Sri Lanka, a story supposed to explain the occurence of 62 species of Ayurvedic plants on Delft Island. But usually it's the smaller island of Kachchaitivu which is regarded to be this so-called "Sanjeewani drop" in the Indian Ocean. However, on one of his visits Hanuman must have arrived on Delft or started his giant jump back to India from here. What else could be the cause of the giant footprint?
Sarapiddi does not really look like a village. It's a settlement area, with dispersed inhabited houses and some gardening areas in between them. Sarapiddi is the perfect place to study the coral walls surrounding private properties, typical for Delft Island. Fences used as enclosures of premises are typical for Tamil settlements all over the Jaffna peninsula. However, coral walls instead of fences are something special. Their appearance resembles Irish sceneries more than Tamil settlements. And this is not by accident, as we shall see below. That Sarapiddi is known for the best freshwater, is also connected with the story of the coral walls. Travellers usually stop at Sarapiddi to walk to the the ruins of a stable complex close to the village.
On the way to the ruins of those horse stable, visitors come along the so-called "Giant's footprint". It is engraved on the stone surface. It is said to have been left by a man who must have been about 13 meters tall. A similar footprint on the island of Nainativu is attributed to the second of the Buddha's three legendary visits in Sri Lanka. However, the Hindu population of Delft credits Hanuman with leaving the footprint in Sarapiddi. The monkey-faced Hanuman was the helper of Rama and came to Sri Lanka several times, flying through the air just like the Buddha. The first time he was on the Island of Lanka in search for Rama's abducted wife Sita. He came again with Rama's monkey army to free Sita. And during the war he had to travel to the Himalayas in search for medical herbs needed for curing Rama's and Lakshmana's otherwise fatal wounds. According to some Hindu beliefs, the entire island of Delft had been created by a piece of the Himalaya mountains that the god Hanuman had been carrying when returning to Sri Lanka, a story supposed to explain the occurence of 62 species of Ayurvedic plants on Delft Island. But usually it's the smaller island of Kachchaitivu which is regarded to be this so-called "Sanjeewani drop" in the Indian Ocean. However, on one of his visits Hanuman must have arrived on Delft or started his giant jump back to India from here. What else could be the cause of the giant footprint?
Sarapiddi stables
Only a few hundred meters behind the footprint, there are the ruins of stables used to herd the horses during the colonial period. It is said those stables were already constructed by the Portuguese and also used by the Dutch, who certainly used Delft Island for horse trade. However, it seems more likely, that those remaining walls and pillars that can still be seen today, are from the early British period. The stables at Sarapiddy were probably built in the early 19th century by the then British officer of the iland, Lieutenant Nolan. The wild Irishman, already mentioned above in our history chapter, started his development of the island's economy by experimenting with the growing of flax, before finally focusing on horse breeding. For both purposes he was in need of improved water supply. And this is why the best freshwater well of the island owes its existence to Lieutenant Nolan. Indeed, he created a series of wells for watering the stock of horse. The extraordinarily pure water from Sarapiddi is needed in other parts of Delft, too, as the best soil on the island is found in the waterless area, whereas in the vicinity of Nolan's wells there is predominantly a naked rock surface. But the quality of the freshwater from Saripiddy is too good to be wasted for watering land. It is used as drinking water in the first place. Pumps for piping this water to other sections of Delft were installed some decades ago, with financial support from the European Union, then called European Community.
Due to its well, Sarapiddi became the centre of Nolan's activities. And probably the Irish style of compound walls was inspired by him, too. They not only enclose inhabited premises but also divide the fields, just as in Ireland. Locals say, that the intention of the unusual fencing was to remind Nolan of his motherland. One of the mansions surrounded by a one meter high stone wall was inhabited by Nolan himself. The then chief officer of Delft used to held court here in his mansion in Sarapiddi.
Nolan built altogether three sets of elaborate stone stables in Sarapiddi due to the village's freshwater ressources. The large ruins of the stables give an impression of the significance of horse breeding in those colonial days of Delft.
Nolan built altogether three sets of elaborate stone stables in Sarapiddi due to the village's freshwater ressources. The large ruins of the stables give an impression of the significance of horse breeding in those colonial days of Delft.
Delft's feral horses, often called the island's "wild ponies"
The horses, originally brought by the Portuguese in the 16th century from Arabia, later on were also kept by the Dutch, for exporting some of them to mainland India and Sri Lanka. As already mentioned in our history paragraph: Due to the tropical climate, breeding of horses has turned out to be very difficult on the tropical Indian subcontinent. Usually horses of Indian cavalry forces had to be imported. Tellingly, gaining a monopoly on horse trade in the Indian Ocean was one of the main ambitions of the Portuguese when fighting against their more peacefully engaged predecessors, the Muslim seafarers.
In the early 19th century, Lieutenant Nolan's breeding program required the import of additional horses. After his period, no fresh blood was brought to Delft Island and after 1906 the commercial breeding program was not continued any more. The horses were left for themselves and roamed freely in the dry scrubland of the southern half of Delft Island. Due to their ancestry, it's not entirely correct to call them "wild horses". They are offspring of domesticated horses, therefore "feral horses" is the appropriate term for this kind of animals.
Although they live in the wilderness, many of them still have owners. Privately owned Delft horses are branded, but all of them are left to roam freely. Most islanders may have forgotten the "cowboy" art of catching them with lassos, but they are still capable of catching the horses in snares, for example. However, some of Delft's feral horses have never been used for work. It's not permitted any more to hold them in captivity. All horses living here are under government wildlife protection now. This also includes a prohibition of removing them from the island for commercial purposes.
Delft's feral horses are often called "ponies". Actually, they are bigger than ponies, though smaller than average horses. Their ancestors were huge-grown Arabian horses. But generally individuals of island populations tend to shrink in size from generation to generation.
The population of Delft horses is estimated to be about 500, but seems to be diminishing and is under threat, because living condition are very tough for horses on this barren island of coral origin. During the annual dry season the animals are suffering due to lack of water and grass. Therefore, the feral horses learned even loosen the moss on the rocks with their hooves to eat it. The main threat to this unique horse population is an increasing number of cattle depending on the same grass that becomes rare during the dry season. In years of severe conditions some of the horses starve to death during the summer months. In the 2011 drought about five percent of the horse populations died due to water deficiency. After this loss, the navy built troughs also in uninhabited parts of the island.
The best way to observe wild animals is to stay overnight on Delft Island, since the horses come to open grasslands and show up in herds in the early morning, already before the first boat with day trippers from Jaffna will have arrived. They also roam in herds during the evening, long after the last boat with tourists departed. Sometimes, herds of horses can even be seen seen wading into the sea. When the heat increases, the feral horses return to covers, those areas of higher vegetation that are shady and protected.
In the early 19th century, Lieutenant Nolan's breeding program required the import of additional horses. After his period, no fresh blood was brought to Delft Island and after 1906 the commercial breeding program was not continued any more. The horses were left for themselves and roamed freely in the dry scrubland of the southern half of Delft Island. Due to their ancestry, it's not entirely correct to call them "wild horses". They are offspring of domesticated horses, therefore "feral horses" is the appropriate term for this kind of animals.
Although they live in the wilderness, many of them still have owners. Privately owned Delft horses are branded, but all of them are left to roam freely. Most islanders may have forgotten the "cowboy" art of catching them with lassos, but they are still capable of catching the horses in snares, for example. However, some of Delft's feral horses have never been used for work. It's not permitted any more to hold them in captivity. All horses living here are under government wildlife protection now. This also includes a prohibition of removing them from the island for commercial purposes.
Delft's feral horses are often called "ponies". Actually, they are bigger than ponies, though smaller than average horses. Their ancestors were huge-grown Arabian horses. But generally individuals of island populations tend to shrink in size from generation to generation.
The population of Delft horses is estimated to be about 500, but seems to be diminishing and is under threat, because living condition are very tough for horses on this barren island of coral origin. During the annual dry season the animals are suffering due to lack of water and grass. Therefore, the feral horses learned even loosen the moss on the rocks with their hooves to eat it. The main threat to this unique horse population is an increasing number of cattle depending on the same grass that becomes rare during the dry season. In years of severe conditions some of the horses starve to death during the summer months. In the 2011 drought about five percent of the horse populations died due to water deficiency. After this loss, the navy built troughs also in uninhabited parts of the island.
The best way to observe wild animals is to stay overnight on Delft Island, since the horses come to open grasslands and show up in herds in the early morning, already before the first boat with day trippers from Jaffna will have arrived. They also roam in herds during the evening, long after the last boat with tourists departed. Sometimes, herds of horses can even be seen seen wading into the sea. When the heat increases, the feral horses return to covers, those areas of higher vegetation that are shady and protected.
Freely roaming cattle
An estimated number of 10,000 cows is part of Delft's livestock. Cows roam freely in the grasslands of Delft, in contrast to goats, which are usually kept in private properties. Cattle is still of some importance for the island's economy. Besides copra and basketwork made from Palmyrah palms, ghee is the main export product of Delft. Filling the troughs and tanks in the island's wildlife area is done not only for the conservation of the feral horses but as well for the cattle. Nevertheless, still some cows are found dead due to the severe living conditions during the dry season.
Cattle lived here in high numbers already during the rule of the Portuguese, who gave the name "Ilha das Vacas", "Island of Cows", as already mentioned. Cattle was still the big industry in Lieutenant Nolan's days, when thes brought a good price when sold on the mainland. But today, the cows are hardly worth shipping. Islanders, apart from producing ghee, use the milk for themselves.
Cattle lived here in high numbers already during the rule of the Portuguese, who gave the name "Ilha das Vacas", "Island of Cows", as already mentioned. Cattle was still the big industry in Lieutenant Nolan's days, when thes brought a good price when sold on the mainland. But today, the cows are hardly worth shipping. Islanders, apart from producing ghee, use the milk for themselves.
Baobab tree
Besides feral horses, there is another organic landmark of the Island of Delft and it may well be that it owes its existence to the horses. Delft is proud to be the home of one of the three biggest Baobab trees of Sri Lanka. The Baobab tree on Delft Island stands completely isolated. Baobab trees (Adansonia digitata) are not indigenous to Sri Lanka. They are from Africa. There are at least two different explanations, how this centuries-old Baobab tree found its way to the island. It may well have been brought by seafaring Arab traders already in the Middle Ages. The famous Tamil historian Mudaliyar C. Rasanayagam in his classic book on "Ancient Jaffna" assumes, that it was used as a tree-totem by early Arabs for animist worship. But more likely is a different story: The Portuguese introduced Baoab tree from Africa, since they used it for curing deseases of horses.
Baobab, belonging to subfamily Bombacoideae of the family Malvaceae, is a genus of altogether nine tree species. Six of them are native to Madagascar and one to the Kimberley region, which is the northernmost part of Western Australia. Two species are native to mainland Africa and the Arabian peninsula, Adansonia digitata being predominant. In dry zones of Africa, the huge Baobab is by far the most notable tree. The species Adansonia digitata, which originates from Ethiopia, is found widely in sub-saharan Africa. Isolated specimen occur in India, too. Indeed, Baobabs are found in various parts of the subcontinent. Some Indian specimen are so voluminous that they could be two thousand years old. Their distribution appears to be a mystery. Fruit pods may have floated from Africa across the Indian ocean. However, it seems more likely that human beings were involved in introducing this species in India. Remarkably, cultural beliefs and practices associated with Baobab trees in some places in India still show some similarity with those from eastern and southern Africa.
There are five major regions in India where Baobab trees occur, namely the Gangetic plains, the state of Gujarat, the Konkan coastal plains of Maharashtra and of neigbouring Goa, the Malwa plateau, and the dry zones along the coastline of Tamil Nadu. Genetic research indicates, that they were imported in different periods and that there are specific African regions of origin in each period. Baobab trees in Gujarat are mainly from Sudan and the Horn of Africa and they were introduced already in the first millennium, most probably by early Arab seafarers, maybe even in pre-islamic times. Presumably they used the fruit of the tree to feed their animals. Other Baobab trees in north-central India appear to have been introduced by Swaheli Muslim merchants in the late Middle Ages. A third wave of imports occured in the Portuguese period, from the same region between Kenia and Mozambique, but affecting other regions in India more, namely Goa and Tamil Nadu. Thus it seems likely that the trees at the opposite site of the Gulf of Mannar are from this same colonial period, too. This means, Sri Lankan Baobab trees must have been brought by the Portuguese, if their closest relatives in mainland India are those in neighbouring Tamil areas and in Goa.
The main reason to believe the alternative hypothesis, that already Arabs introduced the Baobab tree on Delft Island, is its sheer size. It seems not unlikely that this tree is more than 500 years old. The Pallimunai Baobab tree in Mannar, the oldest and largest in Sri Lanka, is estimated to be 700 years old. By the way, the Island of Mannar has more Baobab trees than any other region in Sri Lanka, about 30, compared to an estimated 20 on the mainland of Sri Lanka. Nevertheless, there is only one Baobab tree on Mannar, that of Pallimulai, which is as huge and as impressive as the isolated speciman that can be seen on Delft Island. Altogether, there are only three Baobab trees of such enourmous dimensions in Sri Lanka. The third one is situated at the coast of Wilpattu National Park to the north of Puttalam. It's very difficult to reach and find it. This third huge Baobab tree of Sri Lanka is situated on the banks of a tributary of Pomparippu Aru. In just 50 metres distance from that giant is a much smaller Baobab, those two trees in the region of Puttalam are therefore called “mother and child”.
The stubby main part of the Baobab's trunk is of small height and of enormous girth at the same time, it can be just as wide as it is tall. The trunks can be hollowed out without effecting the health of the tree. Five to six people can stand comfortably inside the trunk of Delft's Baobab tree. Large Baobab trees with naturally or artificially hollowed stems have been used as shelters by people in Africa and India alike. The height of the Delft Island Baobab trunk is 12,9 m and the girth is 15,6 m.
In general, Baobab tree are also called "Bottle trees", due to their strange looking shape, or "Monkey-bread trees" because of their nutritious fruits. The Baobab tree's name in Sri Lanka is "Ali gas" or "Ali gaha" in Sinhalese and "Perukku maram" in Tamil. The Roman Catholics in Delft call the Baobab fruit "Judas Bag" because of the 30 seeds it contains. The term "baobab" is of Arab origin, it's derived from the Arabic plant name "Buhibab", which means "father of many seeds".
The Baobab is a traditional food plant in Africa. Baobab trees are also said to have the capacity to store drinkable water during periods of drought.
Baobab, belonging to subfamily Bombacoideae of the family Malvaceae, is a genus of altogether nine tree species. Six of them are native to Madagascar and one to the Kimberley region, which is the northernmost part of Western Australia. Two species are native to mainland Africa and the Arabian peninsula, Adansonia digitata being predominant. In dry zones of Africa, the huge Baobab is by far the most notable tree. The species Adansonia digitata, which originates from Ethiopia, is found widely in sub-saharan Africa. Isolated specimen occur in India, too. Indeed, Baobabs are found in various parts of the subcontinent. Some Indian specimen are so voluminous that they could be two thousand years old. Their distribution appears to be a mystery. Fruit pods may have floated from Africa across the Indian ocean. However, it seems more likely that human beings were involved in introducing this species in India. Remarkably, cultural beliefs and practices associated with Baobab trees in some places in India still show some similarity with those from eastern and southern Africa.
There are five major regions in India where Baobab trees occur, namely the Gangetic plains, the state of Gujarat, the Konkan coastal plains of Maharashtra and of neigbouring Goa, the Malwa plateau, and the dry zones along the coastline of Tamil Nadu. Genetic research indicates, that they were imported in different periods and that there are specific African regions of origin in each period. Baobab trees in Gujarat are mainly from Sudan and the Horn of Africa and they were introduced already in the first millennium, most probably by early Arab seafarers, maybe even in pre-islamic times. Presumably they used the fruit of the tree to feed their animals. Other Baobab trees in north-central India appear to have been introduced by Swaheli Muslim merchants in the late Middle Ages. A third wave of imports occured in the Portuguese period, from the same region between Kenia and Mozambique, but affecting other regions in India more, namely Goa and Tamil Nadu. Thus it seems likely that the trees at the opposite site of the Gulf of Mannar are from this same colonial period, too. This means, Sri Lankan Baobab trees must have been brought by the Portuguese, if their closest relatives in mainland India are those in neighbouring Tamil areas and in Goa.
The main reason to believe the alternative hypothesis, that already Arabs introduced the Baobab tree on Delft Island, is its sheer size. It seems not unlikely that this tree is more than 500 years old. The Pallimunai Baobab tree in Mannar, the oldest and largest in Sri Lanka, is estimated to be 700 years old. By the way, the Island of Mannar has more Baobab trees than any other region in Sri Lanka, about 30, compared to an estimated 20 on the mainland of Sri Lanka. Nevertheless, there is only one Baobab tree on Mannar, that of Pallimulai, which is as huge and as impressive as the isolated speciman that can be seen on Delft Island. Altogether, there are only three Baobab trees of such enourmous dimensions in Sri Lanka. The third one is situated at the coast of Wilpattu National Park to the north of Puttalam. It's very difficult to reach and find it. This third huge Baobab tree of Sri Lanka is situated on the banks of a tributary of Pomparippu Aru. In just 50 metres distance from that giant is a much smaller Baobab, those two trees in the region of Puttalam are therefore called “mother and child”.
The stubby main part of the Baobab's trunk is of small height and of enormous girth at the same time, it can be just as wide as it is tall. The trunks can be hollowed out without effecting the health of the tree. Five to six people can stand comfortably inside the trunk of Delft's Baobab tree. Large Baobab trees with naturally or artificially hollowed stems have been used as shelters by people in Africa and India alike. The height of the Delft Island Baobab trunk is 12,9 m and the girth is 15,6 m.
In general, Baobab tree are also called "Bottle trees", due to their strange looking shape, or "Monkey-bread trees" because of their nutritious fruits. The Baobab tree's name in Sri Lanka is "Ali gas" or "Ali gaha" in Sinhalese and "Perukku maram" in Tamil. The Roman Catholics in Delft call the Baobab fruit "Judas Bag" because of the 30 seeds it contains. The term "baobab" is of Arab origin, it's derived from the Arabic plant name "Buhibab", which means "father of many seeds".
The Baobab is a traditional food plant in Africa. Baobab trees are also said to have the capacity to store drinkable water during periods of drought.
Giant Banyan tree of Delft
Situated in the same northeastern part of the island as the Baobab tree, there is another eye-catching tree on Delft. However, this species is more characteristic for Sri Lanka and for tropical Asia in general. An intriguing Banyan tree extends its canopy over a large area. The local Tamil name for it is Aalamavanam.
Banyan trees grow to a height of up to 25 m. The sometimes enourmous width of Banyan canopies is caused by new roots descending from the tree's branches. When touching the ground, they form additional trunks. Thus the Banyan becomes a single trees with multiple trunks, literally an entire forest consisting of only one tree. The speciman of Delft Island is a perfect example of this natural phenomenon. It covers an area of about 60 m length and 30 m width. The world's largest Banyan tree is Thimmamma Marrimanu in Andhra Pradesh in India, covering an oval-shaped area of 190 m length and 140 m width.
Banyan trees grow to a height of up to 25 m. The sometimes enourmous width of Banyan canopies is caused by new roots descending from the tree's branches. When touching the ground, they form additional trunks. Thus the Banyan becomes a single trees with multiple trunks, literally an entire forest consisting of only one tree. The speciman of Delft Island is a perfect example of this natural phenomenon. It covers an area of about 60 m length and 30 m width. The world's largest Banyan tree is Thimmamma Marrimanu in Andhra Pradesh in India, covering an oval-shaped area of 190 m length and 140 m width.
Growing stone Dalulana Gala
There is another place not far from the Baobab tree considered to be a natural wonder. A standing coral stone is said to have grown significantly during recent decades, up to a height of over 1.5 meters. Some islanders claim to have sitten on this stone comfortably when they were children and that the size then was less than half from what it is now. Measurements taken periodically are said to prove continuing changes over the years, too.
A natural explanation of this alleged miracle could only be found in assuming seismic shifts in the underground. Expansion of a layer of rock mass beneath the stone may indeed cause an upward pressure. However, there is a more common explanation among Hindu devotees. Upright standing stones with a story of having surprisingly risen from the ground are known as "Swayambhu Lingas" in India, "swayambhu" literally meaning "self-growing from the earth". Lingas are well-known symbols of Shiva, who is also called Ishvara, Swayambhu Lingas being the most venerated ones. Thus, not surprisingly, there was built a Hindu temple in close proximity of Delft's "sprouting stone". It's considered a magic center of power of the island. Locals call this coral stone "Dalulana Gala".
A natural explanation of this alleged miracle could only be found in assuming seismic shifts in the underground. Expansion of a layer of rock mass beneath the stone may indeed cause an upward pressure. However, there is a more common explanation among Hindu devotees. Upright standing stones with a story of having surprisingly risen from the ground are known as "Swayambhu Lingas" in India, "swayambhu" literally meaning "self-growing from the earth". Lingas are well-known symbols of Shiva, who is also called Ishvara, Swayambhu Lingas being the most venerated ones. Thus, not surprisingly, there was built a Hindu temple in close proximity of Delft's "sprouting stone". It's considered a magic center of power of the island. Locals call this coral stone "Dalulana Gala".
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