Dolukanda - hiking & camping mountain near Kurunegala
Dolukanda, a table mountain in the Kurunegala District of Sri Lanka's North-Western Province, has a forested plateau with vertical drops in several directions. Nonetheless, the summit can be reached safely on a good hiking trail. There are numerous highly attractive viewpoints at the edges of the long plateau of Dolukanda and some further attractions, such as a rock shelter and darkwater ponds. Though well-known as a mesmerizing hiking destination among Sri Lankans and not far away from the touristic standard route (from Colombo to the area of Dambulla and Sigiriya), Dolukanda is still an insiders' tip for foreign travelers.
Dolukanda is known as a Holy Mountain to Hindus, who believe that it's one of five chunks of the Himalayas that fell down on Sri Lanka when Lord Hanuman brought the entire Mount Dronagiri from northern India, leaping through the air to the island of Lanka. He had to do so, because the medicinal plants exclusive to the Dronagiri region were the only help to cure Lord Rama and his brother Laksman from otherwise fatal injuries. Though not mentioned in the Ramayana epic that narrates the story of Hanuman leaping with the Himalayan mountain to Lanka, legend has it that among the medicinal plants that grow on Dronagiri in the Himalayas and ever since on Dolukanda in Sri Lanka is the mythical Sanjeewani herb that can heal all diseases. This is why Dolukanda is called a "Sanjeewani Drop", the other four being Ritigala, the highest mountain in the Cultural Triangle, Rummassala rock between Galle and Unawatuna, Thalladi wetlands near Mannar, and Kachchativu Island in the Palk Strait.
In traditional Sinhalese religion, which besides Buddhism as the path to liberation from this world encompasses varying cults of regional gods and demons for mundane affairs, Dolukanda mountain is the home of a local guardian deity that is kown as Lord Weeramunda.
In traditional Sinhalese religion, which besides Buddhism as the path to liberation from this world encompasses varying cults of regional gods and demons for mundane affairs, Dolukanda mountain is the home of a local guardian deity that is kown as Lord Weeramunda.
What to see
The main attraction of Dolukanda is its highest cliff, perfectly vertical and partly overhanging, situated close to the rock shelter called Dolukanda cave. It's also known as Hulang Kapolla. The views from the cave to the overhanging rock and the other way around, from there to the rock of the cave, are breathtaking. The views from here to the northeast, in the direction of Dambulla, go to the lonesome plains in the largely forested area of the triangle between the the North-West Province, the Central Province and the North-Central Province.
The cave is large enough to give shelter for around a dozen persons, campers often use it for overnight stays without need of a tent.
The cave is large enough to give shelter for around a dozen persons, campers often use it for overnight stays without need of a tent.
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Two other excellent viewpoint atop steep cliffs are only a few hundred meters further south, one is close to the meeting point of the hiking trails and the other one halfway from there to the abovementioned Dolukanda cave. The views from Dolukanda to the west and south show more of the isolated peaks that characterise the coconut plantation region just north of Kurunegala. At the horizon, you can see the peaks of the northern range of Sri Lanka's hillcountry, the highest of which is Etipola, the slightly lower peak further north is Hulangala. Seen from Dolukanda, Hulangala is just to the east.
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Close to the said meeting point of the two different access trails, in the area where they reach the summit plateau, are the darkwater ponds. They are also known as Dolukanda secret ponds. The water of the darkwater ponds is not drinkable, but bathing is said to have therapeutic effects.
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The cliffs to the west are less steep. From there, you can spot Yakdessagala Peak as the most prominent mountain in the region of Wariyapola. The peak is in 10 km (6 miles) distance, as the crow flies. The coastline near Chilaw, in 65 km (40 miles) distance, as the crow flies, can be sighted only on very rare days of clearest visibility.
Close to the far northwestern point of the plateau, where the cliffs are almost vertical again, is a vantage point konwn as the sunset point of Dolukanda. Just below the northernmost point is the Dolukanda reservoir in a mountain saddle. A second cave is nearby. However, due to the forest cover, you cannot see much of the reservoir from the summit plateau.
The forest on the summit plateau in rich in curative herbs used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. But to protect the ecosystem, you should not collect herbs. Dolukanda is designated as a nature reserve be Sri Lankan Forest Department.
There are some ruins of an ancient hermitages on the summit. Legend has it that they go back to the time of King Walagamba, who had to keep in hiding for 14 years, when invaders ruled in Anuradhapura. There is a location called Maligathenna at the summit of Dolukanda, it's thought to be a former palace of King Walagamba or a temple he visited for worshiping. Regrettably, treasure hunters caused a lot of damage in recent years, which will compromise the results of scientific research by professional archaeologists.
Close to the far northwestern point of the plateau, where the cliffs are almost vertical again, is a vantage point konwn as the sunset point of Dolukanda. Just below the northernmost point is the Dolukanda reservoir in a mountain saddle. A second cave is nearby. However, due to the forest cover, you cannot see much of the reservoir from the summit plateau.
The forest on the summit plateau in rich in curative herbs used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. But to protect the ecosystem, you should not collect herbs. Dolukanda is designated as a nature reserve be Sri Lankan Forest Department.
There are some ruins of an ancient hermitages on the summit. Legend has it that they go back to the time of King Walagamba, who had to keep in hiding for 14 years, when invaders ruled in Anuradhapura. There is a location called Maligathenna at the summit of Dolukanda, it's thought to be a former palace of King Walagamba or a temple he visited for worshiping. Regrettably, treasure hunters caused a lot of damage in recent years, which will compromise the results of scientific research by professional archaeologists.
Hiking to Dolukanda
As mentioned above, the best starting point of Dolukanda hikes is the village of Doluwa. A hiking trail branches of from the village road at the Buddhist temple known as Dolukanda Raja Maha Viharaya. Another trail starts at the opposite side, at the village of Hunupola at the western foot of the mountain. Both trails meet close to the top, but a little bit below the summit plateau.
It's recommended to climb Dolukanda with a guide to find the correct path. As there is no spring or drinkable water on the summit plateau, all water or beverages have to be carried to the top.
The uphill climb is only moderately difficult, it requires no mountaineering skills at all. For the pace of normal hikers, taking a break here and there, 1.5 to 2 hours will be sufficient for the way up and 1 to 1.5 hours for the return down. However, you should calculate a minimum of one hour at the summit plateau additionally, because it is a long stetch and there are many things to see. If you want to have time enough to enjoy all places of interest in a relaxed way and also reach the sunset point, which is at the far northerneastern end, whereas the trail reach the plateau from the southwest, the stay on the summit plateau will take approximately 1.5 to 2 hours.
Due to the escarpments, the Dolukanda hike is less recommendable for families with kids, except the parents keep them at their hands on the summit all the time.
Concerning the climate, the Kurunegala region belongs to the intermediate zone. It has two annual rainy seasons. By far most rainfall is in October. However, there is a second peak of precipitation in April. The driest months of the year are around February in this northwestern part of the island od Sri Lanka.
It's recommended to climb Dolukanda with a guide to find the correct path. As there is no spring or drinkable water on the summit plateau, all water or beverages have to be carried to the top.
The uphill climb is only moderately difficult, it requires no mountaineering skills at all. For the pace of normal hikers, taking a break here and there, 1.5 to 2 hours will be sufficient for the way up and 1 to 1.5 hours for the return down. However, you should calculate a minimum of one hour at the summit plateau additionally, because it is a long stetch and there are many things to see. If you want to have time enough to enjoy all places of interest in a relaxed way and also reach the sunset point, which is at the far northerneastern end, whereas the trail reach the plateau from the southwest, the stay on the summit plateau will take approximately 1.5 to 2 hours.
Due to the escarpments, the Dolukanda hike is less recommendable for families with kids, except the parents keep them at their hands on the summit all the time.
Concerning the climate, the Kurunegala region belongs to the intermediate zone. It has two annual rainy seasons. By far most rainfall is in October. However, there is a second peak of precipitation in April. The driest months of the year are around February in this northwestern part of the island od Sri Lanka.
Location
The summit of Dolukanda reaches a height of slightly more than 600 m (almost 2000 feet) above see level. The prominence is around 480 m (1500 feet) above the surrounding plains. The largest vertical cliff, situated near the Dolukanda Cave, measures around 100 m (more than 300 feet) in height.
Considering the foot of the range, the entire mountain of Dolukanda stretches 8.5 km (6 miles) from north to south and, on average, 3 km (2 miles) from east to west. The summit plateau, framed by rocky escarpments and steep slopes at different places in all directions, stretches more than 2 km (1.3 miles) in an almost exact north-south line and is around 300 m (1000 feet) wide. The archaeological site of Arankale, which was a monastery and medical center of the enigmatic Pamsukulika brotherhood in the 7th to 10th century, is situated in Kumbukewewa near the western foot of Dolukanda. 4 km south (2.5 miles) south of Arankale is the village of Doluwa, which offers the best access to the summit of Dolukanda. The small village of Kanawa is at the southwestern foot of the mountain, whereas the larger village of Hiripitiya is in some more distance to the northwest. Ganewatte Railway Station is near Hiripetiya.
Doluwa, where most hikers start their ascent, is in 11 km (7 miles) distance from Ibbagamuwa Junction at the much frequented Kurunegala-Dambulla road (part of the A6 Ambepussa-Trincomalee road, which is the main link between Colombo and the northeastern coast). Kurunegala, the provincial capital, is in 24 km (15 miles) distance by road, whereas driving from Doluwa to Dambulla takes 50 km (31 miles). The Ridi Viaharaya of Ridigama, the most noteworthy monastery with ancient caves in Kurunegala District, is in only 20 km (12.5 miles) road distance to the southeast of Doluwa, whereas Yapahuwa, the best preserved medieval fortress of Sri Lanka, is to the northeast in 40 km (25 miles) road distance.
Considering the foot of the range, the entire mountain of Dolukanda stretches 8.5 km (6 miles) from north to south and, on average, 3 km (2 miles) from east to west. The summit plateau, framed by rocky escarpments and steep slopes at different places in all directions, stretches more than 2 km (1.3 miles) in an almost exact north-south line and is around 300 m (1000 feet) wide. The archaeological site of Arankale, which was a monastery and medical center of the enigmatic Pamsukulika brotherhood in the 7th to 10th century, is situated in Kumbukewewa near the western foot of Dolukanda. 4 km south (2.5 miles) south of Arankale is the village of Doluwa, which offers the best access to the summit of Dolukanda. The small village of Kanawa is at the southwestern foot of the mountain, whereas the larger village of Hiripitiya is in some more distance to the northwest. Ganewatte Railway Station is near Hiripetiya.
Doluwa, where most hikers start their ascent, is in 11 km (7 miles) distance from Ibbagamuwa Junction at the much frequented Kurunegala-Dambulla road (part of the A6 Ambepussa-Trincomalee road, which is the main link between Colombo and the northeastern coast). Kurunegala, the provincial capital, is in 24 km (15 miles) distance by road, whereas driving from Doluwa to Dambulla takes 50 km (31 miles). The Ridi Viaharaya of Ridigama, the most noteworthy monastery with ancient caves in Kurunegala District, is in only 20 km (12.5 miles) road distance to the southeast of Doluwa, whereas Yapahuwa, the best preserved medieval fortress of Sri Lanka, is to the northeast in 40 km (25 miles) road distance.
