Kirinda Beach - good starting point for Yala and Bundala safaris
Kirinda, a small, remote fishing village on the south coast of Sri Lanka, is the perfect beach resort for nature lovers, as it is nestled between the famous national park of Yala and the wetland national park of Bundala. The park entrances can be reached within a few minutes' drive.
Kirinda is located 25 km east of Hambantota. However, it can only be reached by roads through a detour via Tissamaharama. Kirinda is in 10 km distance south of Tissamaharama.
The village gets its name from the Kirindi Oya River, flowing down from the mountainous region through the famous Ella Gap and then heading straight south to the sea. Before reaching Kirinda, the river is dammed several times, first forming the Lunugamwehera Tank, the second-largest freshwater reservoir in the south. Like the larger Uda Walawe Reservoir, it is a 20th-century irrigation project. In ancient times, water from the Kirindi Oya was diverted to the historical tanks in the Tissamaharama area, a few kilometers below the modern Lunugamwehera Dam.
The village gets its name from the Kirindi Oya River, flowing down from the mountainous region through the famous Ella Gap and then heading straight south to the sea. Before reaching Kirinda, the river is dammed several times, first forming the Lunugamwehera Tank, the second-largest freshwater reservoir in the south. Like the larger Uda Walawe Reservoir, it is a 20th-century irrigation project. In ancient times, water from the Kirindi Oya was diverted to the historical tanks in the Tissamaharama area, a few kilometers below the modern Lunugamwehera Dam.
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Kirinda boasts one of the picturesque beaches on the south coast of Sri Lanka. While it is already situated in the dry zone and thereby lacking the classic palm-fringed postcard motif, the beach is charming and photogenic due to fine sand, large granite rocks by the sea, a stupa on the highest point, and an offshore coral reef.
Kirinda Viharamahadevi Temple at the beachfront
Some pilgrims heading to Kataragama make a detour to Kirinda because of the seaside stupa. Although the stupa and surrounding structures are modern, the sanctuary is said to be located at a site with a 2200-year-old monastic tradition, where the Lanka Vihara once stood. The place of worship is now called Kirinda Viharamahadevi Temple.
The queen of Rohana’s King Kakavanatissa and mother of the Sinhalese nationak hero, Dutthagamani, was named Viharamahadevi (sometimes shortened to Viharadevi). She received her name from this monastery. Queen Viharamahadevi is highly revered in Sri Lanka. According to tradition, she was called the "Monastery Goddess", which is the literal translation of „Vihara Devi,“ because she was washed ashore near the Lanka Vihara monastery, soon afterwards marrying King Kakavannatissa.
Her father, the king on the west coast in Kelaniya, had set her adrift at sea in a golden boat to appease its turbulent waters. The ocean had flooded his kingdom because the king had murdered an innocent monk. As an atonement, he offered his beloved daughter as a sacrifice to the sea, which was accepted as an appeasement by the gods. However, the innocent young woman experienced a happy ending to this cruel story. as she landed in Kirinda where her boat washed ashore, and she became the wife of the local king.
The queen of Rohana’s King Kakavanatissa and mother of the Sinhalese nationak hero, Dutthagamani, was named Viharamahadevi (sometimes shortened to Viharadevi). She received her name from this monastery. Queen Viharamahadevi is highly revered in Sri Lanka. According to tradition, she was called the "Monastery Goddess", which is the literal translation of „Vihara Devi,“ because she was washed ashore near the Lanka Vihara monastery, soon afterwards marrying King Kakavannatissa.
Her father, the king on the west coast in Kelaniya, had set her adrift at sea in a golden boat to appease its turbulent waters. The ocean had flooded his kingdom because the king had murdered an innocent monk. As an atonement, he offered his beloved daughter as a sacrifice to the sea, which was accepted as an appeasement by the gods. However, the innocent young woman experienced a happy ending to this cruel story. as she landed in Kirinda where her boat washed ashore, and she became the wife of the local king.
for learning more about the story of Viharamahadevi as told in the chronicle and local folklore, please click here...
In Chapter 22 of the Mahavansa, we read the story as follows:
"Tissa, the ruler of Kelaniya, had a brother named Uttiya, who fled from there to escape the wrath that befell him when the king discovered his criminal relationship with the queen. [...] The said prince entrusted a secret letter to a man disguised in the attire of a priest and sent him to the queen. The messenger stood at the palace gate, and the blessed chief monk came daily for his meal in the palace. With his entourage, the messenger entered the royal chambers unnoticed. After the meal with the chief monk, the king left the room with his companions. At that moment, as the queen's attention was on him, the messenger let the letter fall to the ground. However, the sound of the fall caught the king's notice. When he opened it and learned the content, the king flew into a rage against the chief monk. In his fury, he ordered both the chief monk and the messenger to be killed, and their bodies were thrown into the sea. As an atonement, the gods caused that land to disappear beneath the waves of the ocean."
After all these misfortunes, the actual odyssey of the princess begins, but it is quickly summarized in a few sentences in the main source, the Mahavansa, as the text continues:
"The ruler of the land swiftly placed his wonderful daughter Suddhadevi in a golden boat, and with the inscription 'a royal daughter,' he entrusted it to the ocean. However, King Kakavanna elevated her to the dignity of choosing her as his queen after she drifted to the coast of his kingdom near the Lanka Vihara. That's how she received her name Vihara Devi."
Not even the name "Lanka Vihara" is given in all editions of the Mahavansa. However, the tale of the landed princess, who was to become the mother of Sri Lanka's greatest hero, has been embellished in popular legends over time. Today, additional details of the story include the following:
When the princess of Kelaniya, with her own consent, was left on a boat without oars in the open ocean, its raging waves instantly calmed, withdrawing from Kelaniya like a tsunami wave 2200 years ago. However, the ocean also protected the innocent princess. Although her initial landings at Unuwatuna or Dondra failed due to the lack of oars, causing her to be driven back into the open sea, the signs were more favorable at the holy monastery of Lanka Vihara in Kirinda. The king of Rohana, informed about a beautiful woman being stranded, hurried to the coastal monastery and married her after a few days. The ceremony took place on a platform specially built for the occasion. The wedding terrace was dedicated to the order later on.
"Tissa, the ruler of Kelaniya, had a brother named Uttiya, who fled from there to escape the wrath that befell him when the king discovered his criminal relationship with the queen. [...] The said prince entrusted a secret letter to a man disguised in the attire of a priest and sent him to the queen. The messenger stood at the palace gate, and the blessed chief monk came daily for his meal in the palace. With his entourage, the messenger entered the royal chambers unnoticed. After the meal with the chief monk, the king left the room with his companions. At that moment, as the queen's attention was on him, the messenger let the letter fall to the ground. However, the sound of the fall caught the king's notice. When he opened it and learned the content, the king flew into a rage against the chief monk. In his fury, he ordered both the chief monk and the messenger to be killed, and their bodies were thrown into the sea. As an atonement, the gods caused that land to disappear beneath the waves of the ocean."
After all these misfortunes, the actual odyssey of the princess begins, but it is quickly summarized in a few sentences in the main source, the Mahavansa, as the text continues:
"The ruler of the land swiftly placed his wonderful daughter Suddhadevi in a golden boat, and with the inscription 'a royal daughter,' he entrusted it to the ocean. However, King Kakavanna elevated her to the dignity of choosing her as his queen after she drifted to the coast of his kingdom near the Lanka Vihara. That's how she received her name Vihara Devi."
Not even the name "Lanka Vihara" is given in all editions of the Mahavansa. However, the tale of the landed princess, who was to become the mother of Sri Lanka's greatest hero, has been embellished in popular legends over time. Today, additional details of the story include the following:
When the princess of Kelaniya, with her own consent, was left on a boat without oars in the open ocean, its raging waves instantly calmed, withdrawing from Kelaniya like a tsunami wave 2200 years ago. However, the ocean also protected the innocent princess. Although her initial landings at Unuwatuna or Dondra failed due to the lack of oars, causing her to be driven back into the open sea, the signs were more favorable at the holy monastery of Lanka Vihara in Kirinda. The king of Rohana, informed about a beautiful woman being stranded, hurried to the coastal monastery and married her after a few days. The ceremony took place on a platform specially built for the occasion. The wedding terrace was dedicated to the order later on.
A flaw in the story, at least from Kirinda's perspective, is that other coastal towns in Sri Lanka claim to be the legendary landing place with a monastery of this name, for example Arugam and Pottuvil on the east coast. The latter has the advantage of actually boasting significant ruins of an ancient monastery.
However, Tissamaharama was, after all, the capital of the King of Rohana. In the region of Tissamaharama, there is little doubt that Kirinda is the site of that great love at first sight, and its offspring none other than Dutthagamani.
Correspondingly, we find a statue of Viharamahadevi in the temple area, gazing out to the sea. The temple is worth visiting primarily for its view over the nearby beach at its feet, the river estuary behind it, and the pristine coasts of Yala National Park in the distance. For the weary pilgrim, Kirinda offers a refreshing dip in the sea, a nearby pleasure that few other pilgrimage destinations on the tropical island can provide.
However, Tissamaharama was, after all, the capital of the King of Rohana. In the region of Tissamaharama, there is little doubt that Kirinda is the site of that great love at first sight, and its offspring none other than Dutthagamani.
Correspondingly, we find a statue of Viharamahadevi in the temple area, gazing out to the sea. The temple is worth visiting primarily for its view over the nearby beach at its feet, the river estuary behind it, and the pristine coasts of Yala National Park in the distance. For the weary pilgrim, Kirinda offers a refreshing dip in the sea, a nearby pleasure that few other pilgrimage destinations on the tropical island can provide.
Diving at Basses Reef & stories of Arthur C. Clarke.
Touristically, Kirinda has even more to offer than beach and temple and Sri Lanka’s most famous national park at its doorstep. Kirinda is considered one of Sri Lanka’s best places for dolphin watching and the most rewarding diving spot on the south coast, thanks to the offshore coral banks named Great and Little Basses Reef. The two reefs are known for their underwater sandstone formations and the presence of rare shells. Diving expeditions are on offer, but not in all weather conditions, as diving here can be dangerous even in relatively calm surf. Furthermore, diving is restricted by authorities to protect cultural treasures on the floor of the ocean, some of which are believed to have remained undiscovered so far. Therefore, few destinations tempt adventurers among divers more than the coast near Kirinda and Yala National Park.
The two reefs now boast two lighthouses in close proximity, one dating back to 1860. Before their construction, these two reefs were perilous for many ships. The south coast of Sri Lanka lies on the "Silk Road of the Sea," a heavily trafficked route between the Mediterranean and the Far East since Roman times. East-West maritime trade inevitably passes through here because the Palk Strait between Sri Lanka and India is too shallow and hazardous. It was treacherous that the coral banks off the southeast corner of the island lay in wait at the open ocean.
Their current English name "Basses" is derived from the Portuguese "Baxios" for "reef." The two Basses Reefs east of Kirinda, a few kilometers from Yala National Park, are popular among divers because a wealth of historical shipwrecks on the seabed awaits further exploration. Among them is the British warship HMS Daedalus, which sank here on July 2, 1813.
The Great Basses Reef in front of Kirinda became especially famous as the site of a spectacular discovery of silver coins by friends of the author Arthur C. Clarke in 1963. In his trilogy "Blue Planet," the last volume called "The Treasure of the Great Reef“ was published in 1964. It reflects his diving expeditions at the Great Basses since 1958. There, he had embarked on a treasure hunt for the riches of the Indian Mughals. When 5,000 Indian silver coins from 1702 were actually recovered from the seabed in 1963, Arthur C. Clarke once again proved himself as a realistic visionary: "The Treasure of the Great Reef" describes a sensational find that is considered one of the greatest successes in treasure diving. In earlier accounts of his adventures at the Great Basses Reef, Clarke was unaware of this spectacular result of his explorations.
The two reefs now boast two lighthouses in close proximity, one dating back to 1860. Before their construction, these two reefs were perilous for many ships. The south coast of Sri Lanka lies on the "Silk Road of the Sea," a heavily trafficked route between the Mediterranean and the Far East since Roman times. East-West maritime trade inevitably passes through here because the Palk Strait between Sri Lanka and India is too shallow and hazardous. It was treacherous that the coral banks off the southeast corner of the island lay in wait at the open ocean.
Their current English name "Basses" is derived from the Portuguese "Baxios" for "reef." The two Basses Reefs east of Kirinda, a few kilometers from Yala National Park, are popular among divers because a wealth of historical shipwrecks on the seabed awaits further exploration. Among them is the British warship HMS Daedalus, which sank here on July 2, 1813.
The Great Basses Reef in front of Kirinda became especially famous as the site of a spectacular discovery of silver coins by friends of the author Arthur C. Clarke in 1963. In his trilogy "Blue Planet," the last volume called "The Treasure of the Great Reef“ was published in 1964. It reflects his diving expeditions at the Great Basses since 1958. There, he had embarked on a treasure hunt for the riches of the Indian Mughals. When 5,000 Indian silver coins from 1702 were actually recovered from the seabed in 1963, Arthur C. Clarke once again proved himself as a realistic visionary: "The Treasure of the Great Reef" describes a sensational find that is considered one of the greatest successes in treasure diving. In earlier accounts of his adventures at the Great Basses Reef, Clarke was unaware of this spectacular result of his explorations.
for learning more about the diving stories of Arthur C. Clarke, please click here...
Arthur C. Clarke is better known in Europe and the USA as a visionary in space exploration. In 1945, he already published his idea of launching geostationary satellites into orbit for communication purposes. When this vision became a reality in 1964, the geostationary orbit above the equator was named "Clarke’s Belt." Clarke was nominated for the Nobel Prize.
However, he became even more popular because he was also nominated for an Oscar. As a science fiction author, Clarke wrote the short story that served as the basis for Stanley Kubrick's "2001: A Space Odyssey." He also contributed to the screenplay.
Due to his suffering from polio, Clarke could no longer continue his diving expeditions. Nevertheless, at the age of 74, he set a record as an impaired individual confined to a wheelchair, as he managed to dive to a depth of 100 meters. This he did, of course, off the beloved coast of Sri Lanka, which is featured in his books about treasure-hunting. Subsequently, a documentary about his diving adventures off Kirinda was produced, titled "Before 2001 - The Taj Mahal Sunken Treasure."
Born in 1917, Arthur C. Clarke witnessed in 2004 the unfortunate fate of the dive school he founded near Hikkaduwa, which fell victim to the tsunami. He passed away in 2008. He had spent most of his life in Sri Lanka.
However, he became even more popular because he was also nominated for an Oscar. As a science fiction author, Clarke wrote the short story that served as the basis for Stanley Kubrick's "2001: A Space Odyssey." He also contributed to the screenplay.
Due to his suffering from polio, Clarke could no longer continue his diving expeditions. Nevertheless, at the age of 74, he set a record as an impaired individual confined to a wheelchair, as he managed to dive to a depth of 100 meters. This he did, of course, off the beloved coast of Sri Lanka, which is featured in his books about treasure-hunting. Subsequently, a documentary about his diving adventures off Kirinda was produced, titled "Before 2001 - The Taj Mahal Sunken Treasure."
Born in 1917, Arthur C. Clarke witnessed in 2004 the unfortunate fate of the dive school he founded near Hikkaduwa, which fell victim to the tsunami. He passed away in 2008. He had spent most of his life in Sri Lanka.
