Sri Lanka off the beaten path
Undisputably, there are lots of must-sees in Sri Lanka. First-time Sri Lanka travellers should not miss to visit the rock castle of Sigiriya, giant stupas of Anuradhapura, rock-cut statues in Polonnaruwa, the painted caves of Dambulla, cultural and sacred sites of Kandy, the elephant orphanage of Pinnawela, the fortress of Galle, adventure opportunities of Kitulgala, tea plantations around Nuwara Eliya, mountain views in Ella, leopards of Yala, and some beach relaxation, for example in Weligama.
But all the abovementioned places are touristy, of course. Our impression has been, that many of our holiday and study-trip guests were extraordinarily enchanted by some of the island nation's less-known places of interest...
...those sites that due to their undisturbed tranquility allow an authentic travel experience of Sri Lanka’s unadulterated beauty. Just for those travellers searching for off-the-beaten-path destinations that are en route anyway - but not included in mass tourism itineraries - we present a list of a hundred of those less frequented sites. Our list of recommended lonesome places is sorted by regions - or surroundings of famous cities - along the major round-trip routes, starting near the airport and ending at the southwestern beaches. |
This archaeological site near Polonnaruwa is almost never visited by tourists, though it's of scenic beauty and has a wide range of charming ancient sites. You could spend an entire day here without having seen every place of interest. It's a wonderful hiking area, too. And it may come to a surprise: This almost forgotten place in Sri Lanka is of utmost historical significance for Theravada Buddhism not only on the island but also in Southeast Asia. - Where is it? Click the image or find out here...
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introductory note: our categories of "touristic virginity" and "attractivity ranking"
Some of the places listed below ...
... though not untouched by tourism, really remain not overcrowded, we mark them orange-red
... can be called rarely visited indeed, they are marked orange-yellow
... almost never frequented by other tourists, these almost secret places are marked light-green
Some sites are only small or less attractive than others nearby.
This is why we give three different *-star categories to rate the appeal of a specific place of interest:
This is why we give three different *-star categories to rate the appeal of a specific place of interest:
We mark sites of less significance with only 1*star.
Other destinations are well worth considering a detour.
We mark noteworthy places of interest with 2**stars.
The most rewarding off-the-beaten-path destinations are to be highlighted, of course.
Highly recommendable visiting places receive our 3***stars.
Other destinations are well worth considering a detour.
We mark noteworthy places of interest with 2**stars.
The most rewarding off-the-beaten-path destinations are to be highlighted, of course.
Highly recommendable visiting places receive our 3***stars.
So let's get started. Here are our Lanka Excursions Holidays tips for travelling off the beaten path in Sri Lanka:
Colombo is the capital and by far the largest town of Sri Lanka. The beach resort closest to the city centre is the southern suburb of Mount Lavinia. The coastal town of Negombo, with a major fishing port and a long but unprotected and not very clean beach, is closest to Colombo International Airport. A popular tourist attraction at the coastline in between Colombo and Negombo is a boat safari in the Muthurajawela Wetlands. The most famous temple near Colombo is in the suburb of Kelaniya. The most beloved destination in the hinterland is Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage.
3***stars & almost secret
Asked for a highly recommendable insider tip concerning off-the-beaten-path destinations in the surroundings of Colombo, the answer is: the forest and cave moanstery of Pilikuttuwa. The rare visitors are fascinated by the idyllic setting and the austere lifestyle of the monks and enjoy the natural beauty and tranquility of this place. Exploring the area requires two shorter hikes going a little bit uphill and downhill.
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2**stars & almost secret
The nearby Maligatenna is also a forest monatery with some monk cells in caves and a painted cave temple. However, walking to the stupa on the very the top reqires some more strains, as this is actually the highest elevation in the Gampaha District. But the scenic beauty of the path through the rock formations and the vistas from the very top are unforgettable.
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2**stars & almost secret
Another meditation monastery in the same area is Varana (Warana). Distances are shorter here, but there are more painted caves open to visitors, if a monk or helper provides the keys. Actually, the Meda Maluwa („middle terrace“) of Varana has the largest cave temple of the Western Province, but the sculptures and paintings are not comparable in quality to those of Dambulla or Ridigama or Degaldoruwa in the centre of the island.
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2**stars & almost secret
A very hidden though not entirely tranquil place in the same area is the sacred logan of Pettagangala. It’s a quite spectacular scene and almost never visited by foreigners, but often there is some noise from the nearby quarry and the immediate surroundings are not as lonesome as those of the three moansteries mentioned above.
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1*star & almost secret
This entire area is known as Siyane Korale. Another temple, very close to Pilikuttuwa, is Koskandawala. In itself, It’s not worth a detour from Colombo, but someone nterested in seeing as many stupas as possible might consider a break here on the way to one or several of the four other sacred sites mentioned above. Not at the same road, but easily reachable on a short detour is a typical Ambalama, a wooden hut used collectively as resting place by local paddy farmers and pilgrims.
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1*star & almost secret
A very sacred place of some overregional reputation is even further inland, behind the said temples of Siyane Korala. Though it has a rare example of a modern Vatadage, Atthanagala is worth a visit only by those who are eager to see as many sacred Buddhist sites as possible. Most of the buildings are modern and the sculptures are garish. But this place commemorates the self-sacrifice of Sri Lanka’s most popular king, Sirisanghabo, who is almost venerated like a saint.
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1*star & almost secret
In between the Siyana Korale area and Negombo is the district capital Gampaha. Situated in the suburb of Henerathgoda at the road to Negombo, there is one of Sri Lanka’s Botanical Gardens. It’s not popular with foreigners, but the greens and greenhouses attract schoolclasses and weekend picknickers and sports activists and other Sinhalese and Tamil visitors from the Western Province. Dadagamuwa in the surroundings of Gampaha is not special, just a typical Buddhist temple in the Kandyan and modern style.
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1*star & almost secret
Typical temples in the immediate hinterland of Negombo are the cave temple of Aluthepola and the rock temple of Maboda. The latter has the only large historical rock-cut Buddha statue in the western plains of Sri Lanka. This might sound alluring, but to be honest, it‘s not very attractive any more, as the old statue is completely covered with painted new stucco and protected behind glass.
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1*star & rarely visited by tourists
The next major fishing port further north of Colombo is Chilaw. It’s worth considering a detour or a break on the way to Kalpitiya or Wilpattu, if you are interested in seeing a hotspot of the Hindu Culture within a Buddhist majority area. Three temples are noteworthy in the immediate surroundings of Chilaw. Munneshvaram to the east of Chilaw is one of the four most sacred Shiva temples on the island.
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1*star & almost secret
Manavari to the north of the city is believed to be the first place where Lord Rama installed a Lingam in veneration of Lord Shiva. This attracts Hindu Pilgrims from India, as the only other place in the world, where such a Ramalinga can be worshipped is Rameshvaram, the most important pilgrimage site in South India. Compared with Rameshvaram, however, Manavari might be disappointing, as it it small in size and the new architecture does not differ much from most other Hindu temples on the island.
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1*star & almost secret
The Replica of Kataragama temple in Madampe to the south of Chilaw is worth a photo stop. It’s a very new temple, privately sponsored. Apart from Nagapooshani Amman temple on Nainativu Island in the very north of Sri Lanka, this temple in Madampe is definitely the most colourful one you will find anywhere in Sri Lanka. Regrettably, you are not allowed to take photos within the temple precincts. The temple is dedicated to Shiva’s son Subrahmaniya alias Kartikkeya, who under the name of Murugan is one of the most revered deities among Tamils and also venerated as Kataragama by Buddhist Sinhalese.
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2**stars & almost secret
In almost the same distance as Chilaw, but much further inland, is Dambadeniya, not far away from the Provincial capital Kurunegala. Travelling from Colombo or Negombo to Anuradhapura, you can take either the coastal road via Chilaw or the inland road crossing Kurunegala. Taking the latter route, Dambadeniya might be worth a stop of one or two hours. The unpretentious village was Sri Lanka's capital in the mid and late 13th century. It’s worth climbing the once fortified rock, the vistas to the coconut and paddy cultivation area are magnificent. The nearby wooden temple, at the place of a former tooth temple, is from the Kandyan period, it contains some of the best Kandyan paintings you can find in the western plains.
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1*star & almost secret
In 7 km distance from Dambadeniya is the best-preserved historical Ambalama of Sri Lanka. It’s just a small wooden hall, open to all sides. It's nonetheless noteworthy. Amabalamas serving as both local assembly halls and transregional pilgrims rests, are a typical feature of Sri Lanka’s culture. The small Ambalama of Panavitiya furthermore has one very remarkable feature: It’s the place where you can see best traditional woodcarvings still in situ, only second in quality to the famous Embekke temple near Kandy. Another very old and classical Ambalama several kilometres firther north is in Karagahagedara, but this one undecorated.
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1*star & almost secret
As many tourists staying in Negombo or Colombo – and also in Kandy - travel to Pinnawela for seeing the famous elephant bath, they could consider to see some more places of interest in this region. To the north of Pinnawela, Padavigampola is by far the most noteworthy place for those interested in megalithic culture, as this is the largest dolmen on the island. Beligala is worth a detour only for stone carving enthusiasts, as there is a quite unique moonstone left from an ancient tooth temple.
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2**stars & almost secret
To the south of Pinnawela, there is the giant stupa of Dedigama, marking the borthplace of one of Sri Lanka’s most famous kings, Parakramabahu the Great. It’s actually the largest stupa in the western part of the island. Even more interestingly, it’s one of the few stupas that were permitted to be opened by archaeologists. Some of the findings are on exhibition in the attached museum, which is small but one of the most interesting collections of archaeological findings on the island.
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2**stars & almost secret
Further south and not far from the Kelani river valley and its tourist hotspot Kitulgala is the ancient forest monastery of Salgala. Though mentioned in some pocket guides, it's still almost untouched. Salgala can only be visited during morning hours, as it is a place of meditation for the monks living here permanantly or coming for a visit for classes. Salgala is one of the best places to study the live of hermits, forming a central part of the Sinhalese Buddhist culture.
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On the way to Anuradhapura
Most round tours leave the region of Colombo and Negombo, which are the towns closest to the airport, first towards a northern direction, either to Sigiriya or to Anuradhapura. Indeed, it really makes sense to visit the historical places clockwise, because this way you can study them roughly in chronological order. The shortest routes to both areas, Anuradhapura District with Anuradhapura and Mihintale, and Matale District with Dambulla and Sigiriya, cross Kurunegala District, allowing to visit Dambadeniya on the way. An alternative route to Anuradhapura, as said, is the coastal road via Puttalam.
2**stars & not overcrowded
Taking the latter route (A3 and A12), the Peninsula of Kalpitiya is worth a relaxing detour. It’s Sri Lanka‘s best place for Dolphin watching and for kite surfing. The sandy beaches are long and lonesome. Those interested more in historical sites could consider an alternative detour to the very rarly visited cave temple and ruins of Wilandagoda , which is completely untouched by tourism.
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1*star & rarely visited
Taking a break in the provincial capital Kurunegala, travellers can drive almost to the top of the city's backyard hill, the so-called elephant rock, where a large Buddha statue is placed that dominates the entire city. The terrace of this statue is an excellent vantage point to see the city and surrounding hills and the lush green plains of Sri Lanka’s major coconut area. At the foot of the hill is a tomb of a local Muslim saint also venerated by Buddhists.
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1*star & almost secret
A new Buddhist hermitage still inhabited by a monk can be found near the village of Alahuwa between Colombo and Kurunegala. It’s almost never visited by foreigners, though it’s worth a hike a little bit uphill for the excellent vistas to the foothills of the central highlands. The monk living here as a hermit is welcoming all guests.
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3***stars & not overcrowded
For heritage travellers, definitely the number one destination along the Kurunegala-Anuradhapura road A28 is the medieval citadel and rock of Yapahuwa, sometimes called „Sri Lanka’s second Sigiriya“. The former city walls surrounding the rock are still intact and the large sculptural decoration of the imposing grand staircase to the former palace are a major attraction of Sri Lanka, the 360 degree panorama from the top is amazing. Yapahuwa can not claim to be completely off-the-beaten path. However, most visitors are surprised, how undisturbed this great heritage destination still is.
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1*star & almost secret
Halfway between Kurunegala and Yapahuwa is the village of Padeniya. It has one of the rare examples of a Kandyan style temple in the lowlands. Apart from Embekke near Kandy and Panavitiya near Dambadeniya, Padeniya has the most delicate lovely small pillar woodcarvings in the Kandyan style. Padeniya is not what could be called amazing. But it lies en route just besides the road anyway, so it might be a short break for those who are addicted to visiting temples characteristic for the country.
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1*star & almost secret
Nillakgama is a very small but special temple. It’s a detour of 20 km altogether up and down from the small town of Galgamuwa, which is a at the A28 main road. Nillakgama has the best preserved Bodhigara. This is a very early type of Buddhist temple, in which once a tree was venerated, predating the worship of statues in temples. Actually this type of temple was only known from written sources until the Nillakgama Bodhigara was unearthed. The tree does not exist any more, but the stone carvings are noteworthy indeed.
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2**stars & almost secret
For those heritage travellers who have time enough for an indirect route from Kurunegala to Yapahuwa, the detour to Arankale might be rewarding, as this is a quite lovely archaeological site from the Anuradhapura period. Next to Ritigala, it’s the second most important excavation of an ancient meditation monastery of the strange Pansukulika fraternity, with remnants of characteristic double platforms, meditation pathes, a bath and an Ayurvedic hospital. The most picturesque part is the cave hermitage of Maliyadeva, who was Sri Lanka’s last Buddhist saint.
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2**stars & rarely visted
In between the said two main roads (A28 via Kurunegala and A3 via Puttalam) to Anuradhapura, there are two more alternatives, both of them neither crossing Kurnegala nor Puttalam. One is leading from Chilaw to the Kurunegala-Anuradhapura road A28. This means driving 25 km more, because this is a zigzag route. It would allow to see Munneshvaram, Panduvasnuwara, Padeniya, Yapahuwa, and Hatthikucchi. But to see all of this places within only one day, you would have to leave from Negombo at 7.00 am (or 6.00 am from Colombo) and could not spend much time at each of those historical sites.
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1*star & almost secret
Panduvasnuwara is neither spectacular nor picturesque, but allowing to study palace and monastic architecture of the early Polonnaruwa period. A circular arena-type builing is unique to Kurunegala and is said to be the prison of a princes whose brothers feared she might give otherwise to a birth of an heir to the throne replacing and killing them.
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2*stars & almost secret
Another alternative is actually a shortcut. From Chilaw you could take the B45 and B19, reaching the Kurunegala-Anuradhapura road A28 at Galgamuwa. This shortcut allows to visit the Hindu temple near Chilaw (see above) first and also Hatthikucchi (see below). But Yapahuwa is not at this route. Instead, you could visit a much more remote and almost unknown rock temple, which also has perfect vistas, namely the Parakamanda rock of Anamaduwa.
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Anuradhapura District
Anuradhapura is the largest archaeological site in the country, it’s a must for study trips. Mihintale in only 10 km distance is not on each and every bus group’s itinerary but visited by many foreigners. Both historical sites, however, have a lot of undisturbed places, for example the Ashokarama in the very north of Anuradhapura or the Rajagirilena in Mihintale are left out on most shortlists of attractions, although they could count as highlights. Another major natural attraction in the Anuradhapura area is Wilpattu National Park. Most guests enjoy a half-day safari including the central lakes or ponds called Villus as highlights. Less crowded is the coastline of Wilpattu, the ancient Tambapanni, which can be reached on full-day safaris.
2**stars & rarely visited
The quite picturesque historical pilgrimage site of Hatthikucchi, situated between Yapahuwa and Anuradhapura, is not completely off-the-beaten path any more, but most visitors are surprised to be able toe experience this charming ensemble of ruins surrounded by rock boulders in perfect tranquility. The rock-shelter with the perfect view to the valley is believed to have been the hideout of the legendary King Siridanghabo.
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2**stars & rarely visited
Thantirimale to the northwest of Anuradhapura is most notweworthy for one of only three surviving rock-cut Buddhas in reclining posture. It's therefore sometimes called "Sri Lanka's second Gal Vihara". The giant statue is probably from the Polonnaruwa, a much smaller seated Buddha carved from another rock surface in Tantirmale definitely is. The wavy surfaces of the dark granite rocks and the valleys filled with water make Tantirimale an alluring historical site. A footpath leads to a cave with very rare examples of prehistoric paintings in Sri Lanka.
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1*star & almost secret
Really off-the-beaten-path are the archaeological sites to the west of Anuradhapura and Mihintale. They are almost never frequented by tourists. Not far away from Mihintale is Veheragala. It has a painted cave temple and a stupa on a rock and some small ancient bathing ponds. Most importantly, Veheragala was the finding place ot the largest treasure of Mahayana Buddhist figurines, samples or copies of which can be seen in the small museum of the temple. However, for photographers Veheragala is not as attractive as other places further away from Mihintale.
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2**stars & almost secret
Highly recommendable for heritage enthusiasts is a visit of the archaeological site of Kiralagala. It’s located 43 km northeast of Mihintale. However, when travelling from Anuradhapura or Mihintale to Trincomalee or Nilaveli Beach, a visit of Kiralagala only requires a small detour, of less than 10 kms. Kiralagala is the ancient Weherabendhigala. It seems to have been the first large monastery of the hermit brotherhood known as Pansukulikas, where typical features of Pansukulika architecture occur for the first time.
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1*star & almost secret
Kokabe is a very small but charming achaeological site about 10 km to the south of Hamillewa at the Anuradhapura-Trincomalee road (A12). Let’s say, it’s worth a detour only for temple excavation fanatics. But when having a full day available for the transfer from Anuradhapura or Mihintale to Trincomalee or Nilaveli beach, it’s possible to see all those off-the-beaten-path destinations in this remote area, namely Veheragala and Kokabe and Kiralagala and also one or two more, for example Divulwewa and Madagama (the latter will be discussed further below, because it’s closer to Trincomalee than to Anuradhapura).
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1*star & almost secret
Divulwewa is off-the-beaten path but a visit requires a quite long detour either from the Anuradhapura or the Sigiriya area (almost 50 km from each). To be honest, it’s not recommendable to spend so many driving hours to see this archaeological site, as you could visit many more other places of higher significancce elswhere during the same period of time. Divulwewa is an insider tip and a special recommendation only for those studying Buddhist scultures, as it has one of the very few large seated Buddha statues still in situ.
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1*star & almost secret
A rarely visited temple of a completely different character is in Isinbassagala 25 km to the north of Mihintale. The shrine is new and gaudy. However, it’s worth climbing the granite rock which is crowned by a shining white stupa. This is one of the 360 degree panoramas in the plains of the so-called Vanni area, a dry zone scrub jungle in the very north of Sri Lanka. A break in Isinbassagala makes sense when travelling the direct route (A9) from Anuradhapura to Jaffna.
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Far North of Sri Lanka
The major attractions of Sri Lanka’s Northern Province are on Jaffna Peninsula and on the islands in the Palk Strait. Actually, the places of interest listed below are all well-known to visitors of Jaffna. Apart from the major attractions around Jaffna, there are almost no less-known sites that could be recommended. On the other hand, all major destinations on the peninsula are still not at all overcrowded with tourists. In short: All northern attractions of Sri Lanka fall in both seemingly contradictory categories: well-known and less-visited at the same time.
3***stars & not full of tourists
The main attractions of Jaffna town are the Dutch Fort and the Kandaswamy temple in the suburb of Nallur, which is actually the older city. Nallur was once the residence of the princes of Jaffna. As said, there are only few off-the-beaten path recommendations for Jaffna and Nallur. Maybe, one example of a site left out on some typical Jaffna itineraries is the Mantri Manai in Nallur, believed to be the residence of high-ranking officials of the former Jaffna principality.
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2**stars & almost without tourists
Those interested in architectural heritage and cultural history should not miss to visit Kandarodai to the north of Jaffna town. The finds at this archaeological site were significant. The restored stupas are unique. They are small, but there are numerous of them, more than at any other place of the same size.
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3***stars & not many tourists
Nainativu Island has plenty of visitors. However, it’s not yet touristy. The reason is: Most visitors are Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims, the latter venerating the Buddha-visited site of Nagadeepa. The nearby Nagapooshani Amman Kovil is very colourful, similar to Tamil temples in South India. A special appeal of this Hindu temple is that it is situated at the seashore. Starting from Jaffna, Delft island and Nainativu Island could be visited on one single day.
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2**stars & not many tourists
A boat excursion to Delft Island, is quite popular with those travellers who find their way to Jaffna. A safari on the island will allow you to see the feral horses the island is famous for and also one of Sri Lanka’s most impressive Baobab trees. Furthermore, remnants of the Portuguese and the Dutch colonial period will be visited on a round tour on the island. Though included in most Jaffna itineraries, Delft is still a remote island and you will be almost undisturbed during your safari.
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1*star & almost without tourists
Mannar Island in the northwest of Sri Lanka has feral horses and also a Baobab tree. Mannar is very rarely visited by busloads of tourists. An insider tip is a hike along the nortwestern beach to the very tip of the islands to see the sandbanks of the so-called Adam’s Bridge, a chain of islets connecting Mannar with the Indian island of Rameshvaram.
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1*star & almost without tourists
Further attractions are Fort Hammenhiel on an islet to the southwest of Karainagar Island, the ancient port of Jambukola, the holy bathes of Keerimalai, the immense Nilavarai well, the northermost Point Pedro, the sand dunes of Manalkadu, and the Elephant Pass, which is an artificial dam to mainland Sri Lanka.
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Surroundings of Trincomalee in the northeast
Trincomalee is situated on a bank between the island’s largest natural harbour and the open sea. The Koneshvaram temple on a promontory is one of the most revered sacred sites of Hindu devotees in Sri Lanka. The 10 km long sandy beach of Nilaveli and the coral reef of Pidgeon Island and the Sinnakaracchi Lagoon just north of Trincomalee town are popular with holiday makers.
1*star & almost secret
Lonesome beaches can be found further north. A lovely small protected beach is called Arisimalai. It can be reached from a car park near Pulmuddai after a short hike of only 1 km. By the way, the surroundings of Pulmoddai are a rewarding bird watching area.
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3***stars & almost secret
In the hinterland of Trincomalee, there are several places of interest for heritage travellers. All of them deserve to be called off-the-beaten-path destinations. The most impressive one is the circular temple on top of a hill within the quite large archaeological site of Thiriyai (Tiriyaya). This is the best preserved so-called Vatadage from the Anuradhapura period, an absolute must-see for heritage enthusiasts and neverthesless almost undisturbed throughout the year.
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1*star & almost secret
Even closer to Trincomalee, just 4 km north of the sacred hot wells of Kanniyai, is the Velgam Vehera. Historically, it’s a noteworthy site, as this Buddhist temple, though of earlier origin, was restored and enlarged to its current size under the foreign rule of the Tamil Chola dynasty, which was Hindu and otherwise has a reputation of having destroyed Buddhist temples on the island. In the case of Velgam Vehera, they have built one. And it became style-defining concerning the layout and style of image houses in the subsequent Polonnaruwa period. Today, visitors are rare at this important excavation site.
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2**stars & almost secret
Further inland is the rock and monastery of Madagama. It seems not to be amazing when seen from a distance. But this almost unknown place is one of the most delightful places anywhere in Sri Lanka. Apart from some cave temples at the northern foot of the rock, the view from the very top to the Vanni plains is really charming. Most of all, a saddle at the vertical southern sloe of the rock is worth discovering. It has further hermitages and a pond within a rock shelter.
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1*star & almost secret
Seruwila is one of the two holiest Buddhist sites in the Eastern Province. It’s the only stupa in Sri lanka which is believed to contain relics of all four Buddhas of our present aeon. The archaeological site has a new image house in a pagoda-style and a small museum. The place also known as Seruwawila is situated 42 km south of Trincomalee by road. It’s worth a small detour when travelling along the east coast from Trincomalee to Pasikuda Beach or to Batticaloa further south.
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Surroundings of Dambulla and Sigiriya, in the centre of the Cultural Triangle
The World Heritage Sites of Dambulla and Sigiriya form the very heart of the so-called Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka. Both places, the painted caves of Dambulla and the spectacular palace ruins on the so-called Lion Rock are must-sees for all first-time visitors of Sri Lanka, at least for all heritage travellers. This is why you will find it difficult to avoid the crowds at these two sites. The best chances to be undisturbed are visits just at the opening hours. Some other quite touristy - but nevertheless recommendable holiday activities - in the surroundings of Dambulla and Sigiriya are village tours in Habarana and elephant safaris in Minneriya or Kaudulla National Parks (depending on the season of elephant migration). Apart from these major attractions, there are numerous other places of interest in this amazing area, some of them completely untouched by tourism.
3***stars & rarely visited
One of the greatest places in Sri Lanka is in only 1 km distance from Sigiriya. It’s the neighbour rock known as Pidurangala. This was the Buddhist monastery outside the city walls of Sigiriya. There is a lot to see in Pidurangala, a ground-level excavation site of typical monastic buildings from the late Anuradhapura period, painted caves with long relining Buddhas, prehistorical rock shelters, a gorgeous recling Buddha made of brick in one of the rock shelters. Most amazing are the vistas from the very top. Actually, the 360 degree panorama from Pidurangala is even more spectaculat than that of neighbouring Sigiriya.
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3***stars & not overcrowded
Well-known and often visited, particularly in the most recommendable morning hours, is the most imposing rock-cut Buddha on the island. It’s known as Aukana Buddha . It’s not the tallest of Sri Lanka’s rock-cut statues, but concerning mass or volume, it’s definitely the largest one and it’s extremely well designed. Hence, it attracts many heritage tourists. Nevertheless it’s not yet overcrowded and can be even lonesome at times. When travelling to Aukana, you will drive the road on the crown of the Kalawewa, which is Sri Lanka’s most famous historical tank, though not the largest one.
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3***stars & rarely visited
The beauty of the rock-cut Sasseruwa Buddha in Rasvehera can not rival that of the more famous „twin“ statue in Aukana. Having said that, we can claim that most travellers like hte Sasseruwa Buddha even more. The reason is the location or the surroundings. The rock surface, from which the Sasseruwa Buddha is cut, is at a natural platform high above the ground level, offering vistas to the wilderness. It’s a tranquil place. And much less tourists than to Aukana also come to visit this equally large statue. Apart from the rock statue, Rasvehera has also some intersting painted caves. And it’s in the middle of a nature sanctuary rich in elephants.
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3***stars & rarely visted
One of the most imposing cave temple in Sri Lanka, second only to Dambulla, is the Reedi Vihara near the village of Ridigama. The silver monastery is worth a detour for several reason. Besides the painted caves, it has a picturesque small temple from the Polonnaruwa period. The Ridivharaya temple is mentioned in some pocket guides and therefore visited by some independent travellers. But busloads of tourists are rarely seen in Ridigama. Most visitors are Buddhist pilgrims.
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2**stars & not overcrowded
Easy to reach is the Nalanda Gedige, which is in only 2 km distance from the A9 main road from Dambulla to Kandy. The Nalanda Gedige is not completely off-the beaten path. But as it is not large, many guided tours don't take notice of it. This may come to a surprise, as the Nalanda Gedige is remarkable for at least three reason. It’s the only ancient temple of Sri Lanka completely built of stone. It’s known as the Abu Simbel of Sri Lanka, as it had to be reconstructed at a higher altitude due to a reservoir project. Last not least, it’s the rare example of a temple on the island that is tantric and has a carving depicting a copulating couple – or more precisely: triple.
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2**stars & not overcrowded
Ritigala near Habarana is another archaeological site which is on the shortlist of many heritage travelers and deserves to be. It’s a quaint place today and once was the largest monastery of a specific kind, inhabited by the mysterioues brotherhood that was called Pansukulikas in ancient chronicles. They were full of disdain for works of art, showing their contempt by ornating only one item with careful carvings, the urinal stones of their monasteries. Nonetheless, the almost megalithic stones of their monastic buildings were hewn precisely and quite elaborately.
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2**stars & almost secret
Another Pansukulika monastery is not far away, only 20 km further west. Astonishingly, the archaeological site of Manakanda, though comparable in size and quality to Ritigala, is missing in most pocket guides. Maybe, that’s the reason why there is why almost never any tourist shows up in Madagama, though it’s really not far away from the traffic hub where the roads from Anuradhapura to Kandy and from Polonnaruwa and Habarana to Aukana and Yapahuwa meet.
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1*star & almost secret
The said village, where the Polonnaruwa road A11 branches off from the main road A9 to Dambulla and Kandy, is Maradankadawala. Hidden behind in paddy fields and at the foot of a hill, but one kilometer west from the busy street is a typical cave temple of Sri Lanka. It’s called Gallenvihara. Actually, this is not a must-see, but could be of interest for those who don’t like long detours for seeing some extras.
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2**stars & almost secret
Namal Uyana is a nature reserve with sparse remnants of an Anuradhapura-period monastery. Some guests fall in love with this place, others are disappointed. There are scenic views from the top of the hill and the streams in the jungle are picturesque at places, too. However, Namal Uyana is remarkable for two items. It is crowded with iron wood, the precious timber Sri Lanka is famous for, and it has the largest rose quartz hill in South Asia.
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2**stars & rarely visted
Kalupokuna, also called Kaludiya Pokuna of Sigiriya, is close to the famous Heritance Kandalama Hotel. That’s why sometimes busgroups or several independent travellers find their way to this archaeological site amidst a nature and bird sanctuary. Nonetheless, chances are not too bad to expereince the beauty of this location completely alone. And it’s a charming place indeed, coming close to picturebook visions of lost temples in the jungles.
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1*star & almost secret
A very rarely visited site is Bakamuna to the southeast of Kandalama. Actually, it is not worth that long detour, because there is only one item of interest, one of the three surviving rock-hewn recling Buddhas in Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle, the other one being in Polonnaruwa and Tantirimale. The statue in Bakamuna is smaller in size and less well preserved. It’s only worth a visit, if you must have seen all important sites of Buddhist art or if you take the shortcut via Bakamuna (instead of Habarana) to Gititale and Polonnaruwa.
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1*star & almost secret
Little touristic attention is paid the the archaeological site of Menikdena to the southwest of Dambulla. It’s not spectacular at all. But the ancient monastery is worth mentioning as the best example of a specific type of monastic complexes that were very common in the late centuries of the Anuradhapura perios (7th to 10th century). Menikdena is a classical version of a so-called Pabbata Vihara. Besides, it’s also an arboretum within the excavated area.
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Surroundings of Polonnaruwa and hinterland of Pasikuda
For all those interested in historical places, the UNESCO World Heritage Site Polonnaruwa, which was the medieval capital during the heydays of the Sinhalese civilisation, is a must-see. Many visitors of Polonnaruwa prefer Giritale for their overnight stays, as it closer to the elephant gathering national parks. Among the major heritage sites of the Cultural Triangle, Polonnaruwa is the one closest to the sea. The newly established beach resort of Pasikuda is very popular with families with children, as the water in the crescent cove is shallow and safe. - In Polonnaruwa, there are only very few temples that are not frequented by tourists. Most travellers do not stop at the small Hindu Devales in between the exit gateway of the archaeological park and the town centre. Within the archaeological park, don’t miss to walk around on the three hills and in their western backyards of the Alahena Pirivena complex, which was the major monastery of the capital. Not many tourists explore this most alluring part of the large compound in detail. Somewhat hidden is the small monastery known as Menik Vihara right in the centre of the Archaeological park. A famous and very charming site is the palace complex of King Nissanka Malla at the banks of the Topa Wewa. It’s still a tranquil site, at least at times.
2**stars & not overcrowded
The most rewarding excursion from Polonnaruwa to a neighboruing archaeological site is to Medirigiriya. It’s mentioned in all pocket guides. Medirigiriya has one of the most imposing typical Sinhalese Vatadages. It’s centuries older than the more famous Vatadage of Polonnaruwa. What’s special about Medirigiriya is that there are many ancient Buddha statues still in situ. If you are an explorer, you can discover many more of them in the area between Medirigiriya and the Kaudulla tank.
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1*star & almost secret
Somawathiya is a national park that can not be explored on jeep safaris. It’s possible to visit the restored stupa within the national park, but it’s highly recommendable to do so with a jeep instead of a normal car. The architecture of the stupa is not alluring. However, the remote location might be a reason for the detour. And you can come into contact with Sinhalese pilgrims here. The stupa is believed to enshrine Sri Lanka’s second Tooth Relic.
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3***stars & almost secret
In between Polonnaruwa and Pasikuda, there is a heritage site that’s not crowded at all, though it’s one of the island’s most attractive destinations at all. Actually, you could spend an entire day hiking around in Dimbulagala to see the dozens of places of interest in this isolated range. Even more isolated is the single needlepoint inselberg of Thoppigala, situated even closer to Paskuda Beach, but accordingly it’s farer away from Polonnaruwa. Thoppigala is worth a visit for nature enthusiasts. It’s a protected conservation zone. Some adventure acticities, also suitable for kids, are on offer in the plains at the foot of the imposing rock.
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1*star & almost secret
A short excursion from Pasikuda can lead to Thennadi Bay, which is just at the opposite side of the promontory known as „elephant head“, a long peninsula covered with palm trees. Thennadi Bay is not touristy. Some Tamil fishermen live in this area. With a little luck, you will be able to study their traditional beach seaning technique of fishing, similar to the „singing fishermen“ of Kerals, though regrettably without singing.
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1*star & rarely visited
30 km south of Pasikuda is Batticaloa, situated on a spit between the Indian Ocean and Sri Lanka’s largest and most winding lagoon. Historically, Batticaloa was the second most important port in the east of the island, this is why there is a Dutch Fort similar to that in Trincomalee. Batticaloa town is crowded with Hindu temples. They are not attractive for lovers of ancient art. But their annual temple feasts are amazing. You should not miss such an event, when spending your holidays at the east coast just in due time. Kalmunai further south is even larger than Batticaloa. It’s the largest Muslim settlement of Sri Lanka.
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3***stars & almost secret
Spending some days in Polonnaruwa or Pasikuda, you could consider a very special kind of safari experience, though it requires a lot of driving hours. The Maduru Oya National Park to the south of Dimbulagala but with ist maingate at the opposite side (direction Mahiyanagana) is the only large national park on the island that is never crowded with jeeps. It’s the best chance to experience Sri Lanka‘s wildlife in a completely undisturbed way.
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Surroundings of Kandy
Whether you are visiting the Cultural Triangle area or the Central Highlands, Kandy will almost certainly be on your way when being on a round tour. The charming hill capital is worth to stay there several days. Elephant bath or tea factory or the Botanical Gardens of Peradeniya or village tours in Pilimattalawa are popular attractions in the surroundings of Kandy. Many heritage travellers like to see the Western temples of Gadaladeniya, Lankatilaka and Embekke from the Gampola period.
1*star & almost secret
This classical half-day trip excursion can easily be extended to become a full-day excursion by also visiting the nearby Kandy-period temples in Danthure and Dodamwela and relaxing in the Royal Botanical Gardens of Peradeniya on the way back.
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1*star & rarely visited
Only very few tourists travel to destinations in and around the Mahaweli Valley situated to the east of Kandy, though there are several places of interest around Victoria and Randenigala Reservoir. Besides Dambulla and Ridigama, the cave temple of Degaldoruwa has the most impressive murals in the Kandyan style. It’s rarely visited, though it’s surprisingly close to Kandy.
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3***stars & almost secret
Even tourists who have not time enough for hiking in the Knuckles Range or are not eager to walk long distances, could consider a half-day excursion to Medamahanuwara and Hunasgiriya and Deanston in the southern foothills of Knuckles Range. Hiking only very short distance will be rewarded with astonishing vistas. Surprisingly, not many foreigners come to know these places when preparing their tours. Great places such as Deanston are still off the beaten path. An excursion to Deanston can easily be expanded to include Corbett’s Gap and Meemure as well.
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1*star & almost secret
On the way to the Cultural Triangle further north, many travellers take a break to see the rock temple of Aluvihara. It’s also worth to include it on a day trip to the seceic northeast of Kandy, the northern foothills of Knuckles Range. There are short hikes with phantastic vistas in Riverston or to the waterfalls of Bamarakiri. A stop in Rattota at the island’s only Rama temple and detour to the beloved Hunas Falls hotel are worth considering on the way back.
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1*star & almost secret
Hanguranketa, the hideout of the Kandyan kings during periods of foreign intervention, has a temple with an impressive collection of palm-leaf manuscripts and a large building full of Kandyan paintings. It could be a welcome break for those who are travelling an alternative and less touristy route to Nuwara Eliya.
photo courtesy of Günter Schönlein |
Less-frequented areas in Sri Lanka's highlands
The number of touristic highlights in the highlands of Sri Lanka is immense. Apart from Kandy and ist surroundings the most beloved destinations in higher altitudes are Nuwara Eliya and Ramboda, Haputale and Ella, Adam’s Peak and Horton Plains, St. Clair’s and Devon Falls, Kitulgala river rafting and waterfall adventures, Sita Eliya and Divurumpola Ramayana pilgrimage sites sites, Hakgala and Ambuluwawa Gardens. Bambarakanda Ella and Diyaluma Ella and Kurundu Ella are the island's tallest waterfalls. However, the name of the major travel destination in Sri Lanka's highlands is, of course, this one: tea. Tea plantations open for visitors are found near Ramboda, Hatton, Ella. A perfect way to explore the scenic beauty of the tea regions, of course, is a train ride along the highland railroad.
1*star & almost secret
However, there are some additional places that are less famous and less crowded. For example, the most famous vistas are those from Lipton Seat near Haputale and World’s End on Horton Plains. However, Kondagala near Sri lanka’s first tea plantation and Mini World’s End at Magulsima are not less spectacular and almost never visited by foreigners. The tea region of Uda Pusselawa to the east of Nuwara Eliya is rarely freqented by tourists, despite ist scenic beauty.
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2**stars & rarely visted
Among the more than a hundred waterfalls of the highlands, let’s highlight 3 different regions. Near Norton Bridge are the deep chasms of Lakshapana and Aberdeen Falls. Reaching the bottom requires climbing lots of stairs at both sites. Aberdeen Falls can be the destination of a hiking tour starting at the Ginigathena Pass. Car parks are availabke at both sides of the river, but for taking photos you cannot avoid the climbs.
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2**stars & rarely visted
There are some remote places even in the touristy Kitulgala area, for example Beli Lena with a waterfall in front of a cave and the two waterfalls of Mannakethi.
A rarely visited area with lots of waterfalls is between Hanguranketa and Ragalla along the B413 road, here you find the 189 m tall Kurundu Ella and the island’s most picturesque ensemble of waterfalls known as Mandawela Ella. |
3***stars & almost secret
Though Badulla is known to many travellers as the terminus of the highland railroad, not many foreigners are going to explore the surroundings, except from Dunhinda Falls. But there are several other places of interest that could be worth a detour from Badulla, The gravel road from the tea region of Spring Valley to Namunukula village is one of the most gorgeous scenic roads in Sri Lanka. From the top of the pass, jungle pathes lead to the summit of Namunukula mountain, which has breathtaking vistas in all directions.
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1*star & almost secret
A much shorter and easier detour from Badulla or also from Ella is a visit of Bogoda Bridge. This is by far the oldest and largest wooden bridge in Sri Lanka. Interestingly, it is roofed, because it suved as a pilgrimage rest, a so-called Ambalama, too. Apart from the picturesque bridge, there is also a cave temple in the typical Kandyan style.
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Surroundings of Arugam Bay
Among surfers, beginners and intermediates alike, Arugam Bay and the nearby town of Pottuvil are the preferred destination in Sri Lanka. Beach holiday makers, too, are attracted to the southeast coast, particularly during the northern summer months. But nights in Arugam can be quite noisy in weekends, when young people from Colombo come here to enjoy having parties with friends. Among holiday makers, the most popular excursion from Arugam Bay is a jeep safari in Kumana National Park, which due to numerous lagoons and ponds and swamps is extraordinarily rich in birdlife and is home to both crocodile species occuring in Sri Lanka.
2**stars & rarely visited
It’s quite common to combine a morning safari in Kumana National Park with a visit of Okanda Beach and Kudumbigala Rock. Though several travellers do so, Okanda is still a very lonesome beach and Kudumbigala, one of the loveliest ancient sites of Sri Lanka, isn’t crowded, either. Besides being a heritage destination and the best vantage point in the region, Kudumbigala is also a nature reserve. Sloth bears inhabiting this region are said to come close to the monastery from time to time.
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2**stars & almost secret
The national park of Lahugala-Kitulana is too small for jeep safaris but has some obervation spots to see wild elephants. Lahugala has an important excavation site, too. The so-called Magul Maha Viharaya is surrounded by legends from a distant pass. The parents of the national hero, Dutthagamani, are said to have marries here. The buildings are from much later centuries. One remarkable feature is Sri Lanka’s only moonstone depicting mahouts sitting on the backs of elephants. Lahugala is on the way to Gal Oya.
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2**stars & rarely visited
Gal Oya further inland is Sri Lanka’s only national park that can be explored by boat. Boat excursions in the afternoon allow observations of wild elephants, some of them even swiming to islets close to the shores. Early morning boat safaris are better for bird observations. Prior booking of boats is advisable, as rangers and boats are not always available. There are several days a year without any foreign guests in Gal Oya. Insofar it’s still off the beaten path, though mentioned in almost all pocket guides.
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1*star & almost secret
A morning or afternoon boat safari could be combined with a detour to Buddhangala and Rajagala and Digavapi, three araeological sites close to Ampara. Buddhangala is one of the earliest Buddhist cave hermitages on the island, Rajagala is one of the remotest temple excavation in Sri Lanka, whereas Digavapi is a pilgrimage site, believed to have been visited by the Buddha. The main attraction is the largest stupa in the Eastern Province. All three places are almost never visited by foreign tourists. Rajagala and the adjoining Piyangala hermitage are very appealing.
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2**stars & almost secret
A heritage tour to Buddhangala and Rajagala and Digavapi can also be combined with a detour to Rufus Kulam. In contrast to Gal Oya National Park, entry is free at Rufus Kulam. Though not large, Rufus Kulam is one of the most enchanting lakes in Sri Lanka. This is one of the very few places on the island, where exciting wildlife observation is possible without jeep and without ranger. Wild elephants come often to this lake in the evening hours. Also deer and wild buffalos can often be seen here. It’s also worth a half-day detour from Pottuvil or Arugam Bay without any further visits.
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Hinterland of the southern coast
Mirissa near Weligama is Sri Lanka’s major destination for whalewatching and Rekawa is the most important turtle nesting beach. The climate of particularly Tangalle and Hambantota and Kirinda at the southern coastline of Sri Lanka differs from the soutwestern beach resorts. The summer monsoon rains do not reach so far to the east. The much drier climate is a reason why the south coast has become increasingly popular in tecent decades. Another reason is wildlife. There are four national parks in Sri Lanka's Deep South. Yala is the most famous one, for spotting leopards in particular. The nearby Bundala is for birdwatching. Udawalawa further inland has a large elephant population. Lunungamwehera is rarely visited. A very special attraction at the southern coast is one of the world's very few blowholes, Hoomaniya between Matara and Tangalle.
2**stars & rarely visited
Two stupa-crowned rocky hills in the wilderness of Yala National Park are an attraction in itself. But this picturesque place is a much frequented Buddhist pilgrimage site. Nonetheless, the charming ancient site is nonetheless not yet crowded with noisy busloads of foreign tourists. Sithulpahuwa is not only recommendable for photographers. It's actually a former monastery of some historical significance, as it was the major forest monastery of the southern kingdom known as Rohana. Important Mahayanist sculptures are still in situ. For heritage travellers in the Deep South, Sithulpahuwa is definitely a must-see.
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3***stars & not overcrowded
There are several places in the hinterland of the Deep South that are rarely visited, waterfalls and forest hermitages in particular. However, the most important heritage destinations are not off the beaten path any more. Mulgirigala in the hinterland of Tangalle and Situlpahuwa in the vicinity of Yala National Park are nevertheless worth visiting. And though frequented by foreigners, they cannot be called overcrowded.
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1*star & almost secret
Rambavihara (Ramba Viharaya) is an archaeological site that can easily be reached. It‘s on the way to Udawalawe National Park. The temple ruins are not a overwhelming sight, not comparable to the big temple towns in ther northern Cultural Triangle. But for those who can not travel to Polonnaruwa, the Ramba Vihara might give an impression of the island’s Buddhist monastic culture. Actually, it was an important monastery during the Polonnaruwa period. It’s somewaht surprising that the Ramba Viharaya is almost never visited by foreigner.
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1*star & almost secret
Wawul Pane an off-the-beaten path worth mentioning due to ist uniqueness. It’s one of the very few dripstone caves in Sri Lanka, and ist definitely the largest one. It can only be visited with gumboots and torches. Visitors are very rare in Wawul Panne, which is located in the eastern foothills of the Sinharaja range.
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1*star & rarely visited
A typical cave temple, rather gaudy, is Sankapala on the way to Ratnapura. Several tourists take a break here, because it’s very close to the main road A18. It’s not a major attraction for lovers of art. But it’s an interesting religious site, as there are Hindu temples, so-called Devales, attached to the former Buddhist hermitage. Sometimes ceremonies are held at these Hindu Devales by Sinhalese priests, so-called Kapuralas.
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2**stars & rarely visited
Burduruwagala between the south coast and Ella in the hillcountry are the largest group of rock-cut Buddhas on the island. However, the largest free-standing Buddhas are further east. Maligawila close to Buttalam is still a pilgrimage site in the first place, not a tourist hub. This will allow you to observe the ceremonies of Buddhist devotees and take pictures of locals instead of fellow tourists. For lovers of Buddhist art, Maligawila is certainly a must.
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2**stars & rarely visited
When travelling from Buduruwegala to Maligawila, there are two archaeological sites in the Buttala area that are almost on the way. They are rarely visited, though one of them, the giant stupa of Yudaganawa, is very imposing. Actually, this is the largest stupa in the southern half of the island. The current shape, not a dome, is the result of restaurations carried out in the heydays of the Polonnaruwa period. A smaller and older stupa and some typical temple ruins can be seen at the Dematamal Vihara at the opposite side of Buttala.
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1*star & almost secret
One of the many waterfalls in the foothills of the central highlands and the Sinharaja range is Kirindi Ella near Pelmadulla were the main roads A4 from Colombo via Ratnapura to the east coast and A 18 from the south coast meet. Driving to the Kirindi Falls is a detour of only 5 km up and down. Though it‘s easy to find and not far away, the observation platform of these picturesque waterfall in a jungle is rarely visited by foreigners.
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Hinterland of Sri Lanka's southwestern beach resorts
There are a lot of tourist destination along the southwestern coastline between Colombo and Galle and its tropical hinterlands. Bentota is the number one destination for motorsports. The nearby Beruwela has the largest bed capacity of all beach resorts in Sri Lanka. Hikkaduwa is famous for it’s coral reefs. In between those two beach holiday hotspots, there are various attractions such as Madhu Ganga wetlands, Ambalangoda masks, Meetiyagoda moonstones, soice and herbal gardens, turtle hatcheries in Kosgoda and Induruwa and elsewhere, last not least the wonderful tropical lanscape gardens of the brothers Bawa, namely Brief Garden and Lunuganga Estate. For those interested in hiking, excursions to the reainforests of Sinharaja, Kanneliya or Bodhinagala are highly recommendable. Many beach holiday makers enjoy a day tour to Kitulgala for white water rafting.
2**stars & not overcrowded
Ratnapura is the gem city. Some holiday makers like to go there for seeing gem mines or exhibitions or for shopping. We propose to combine such a visit in Ratnapura with seeingsome attractions that are in its immediate surroundings or on the way from the coast, for example the Saman Devale not far from the town centre.
Kuruwita, 13 km north of Ratnapura, has several nearby attractions, of which Bopath Falls is frequented by many weekend travellers. But most of them are Sri Lankans, as this is a waterfall close to Colombo. Only 1 km further north are the very rarely waterfalls known as Dodam Ella. |
1*star & almost secret
Batadombo Lena 4.5 km northeast of Kuruwita is an important achaeological site where bones of the prehistoric Balangoda man have been found. The rock shelter below a picturesque escarpment is now used as a resting place of locals who work in the surrounding rubber plantation. The 1.5 km uphill footpath from the car park to Batadomba Lena is scenic, with some sections crossing natural rain forest. This is a destination worth considering a detour when you are in the Kuruwita region anyway.
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2**stars & almost secret
Divaguhawa is well-known among pious Buddhists as one of the places on the island that were visited by the Buddha. The first chapter of the Mahavansa chronicle mentioned he stayed one day at the foot of Siri Pada (Adam's Peak) after visiting the mountain during his third visit to Sri Lanka. The Kandyan tradition of 16 places visited by the Buddha has it that this was in a cave. Only recently, the Batathota Lena was identified as this cave. To archaeologists it is known as a site where remnants of the prehistoric Balangoda culture have been found. Divaguhawa is a very large cave room, including separate temples for Hindu deities. From the cave openong, you have an impressive view to Adam's Peak.
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1*star
For those interested in a cultural-leaning day-excursion, we recommend to visit the giant stupa of Dedigama and the forest hermitage of Salgala, which are not farer away than Kitulgala.
A very rarely visited archaeological site is the island’s largest rock shelter, which is known as Pahiyangala. It’s named after the 5th century pilgrim Faxian from China. Today, a large reclining Buddha can be seen in one of the rock shelters. |